Headlight failure

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 20 Jan 2012, 19:31

It seems more of the P-2s (later editions) are having problems with headlight/ballast failure. Ours (R-F) failed today on our '06 V-70R. Before trying to get at the bulb or pull the ballast off I need to know how to test the ballast to see if it is OK. No sense replacing the bulb if the ballast is the issue.

Also, anyone know of a reasonable method (time and money) to convert it back to standard bulbs? Like the Sylvania super brights?

Anyway, I'd like to get the first problem solved before getting into a conversion (if it is even possible).

Post by **JRL** » 20 Jan 2012, 21:27

You have to deal with these, the lights are different from a regular V70 (size) standards will not fit, not even close
I would buy a bulb first

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 21 Jan 2012, 12:20

I have a new bulb and am ready to replace it. Because of the warning sticker about high voltage in the ballast I need to know if there is a way to safely disconnect the ballast without taking the battery out of the circuit. Alternatively, can I just unplug the bulb and replace it (with rubber gloves)? I can't find the procedure. Since this is the driver's side bulb, LH in US it is relatively easy access compared to the right side.

D_V_ENT850R · Post by **D_V_ENT850R** » 21 Jan 2012, 17:18

Yes you can just unplug it! The warning is for those who try to test the ballast by turning the lights on and probing the connector! BAD IDEA!!!!!!!!!!! The only way to test easily is plug in a known good bulb. If you take the right one and plug it into the left ballast and it works bad bulb. If it doesn't work test the connector before the ballast for 12v from the headlight switch if there is power than the ballast is bad! But never test the output side of a ballast unless you don't mind the smell of burnt hair and flesh!!!! LOL! Be careful, and good luck!

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 21 Jan 2012, 18:25

Thanks for that good information. I picked up a pair of bulbs today and might go ahead and test the ballasts/replace both bulbs since it is such a PITA to get to the R side bulb. That's the one that actually failed (my original information came from my wife who has 2 lefts. She just told me the wrong one). I was thinking of testing the output voltage on the ballast. Just wondering what scale to use. I would start with the highest on DC volts and work down, unless I know the spec output volts at the start.

Post by **jimmy57** » 21 Jan 2012, 19:20

You can't test ballast with voltmeter. It's function is to produce an up to 30K volt output to vaporize the metallic gas and then the vaporous metal cloud will glow with 40-60 volts.
As was mentioned above, The test is to try with known good bulb.
Typically bad bulbs behave like bad flourescents, the bulb will flicker several times and then come on. The ballast will not produce max output for vaporizing for long so it takes a few tries to get a worn to a wider gap bulb to stay lit long enough to heat the condensed metal into gas. The blue phase when first on is the blue arc between electrodes until the metal goes gaseous and then glows whiter. Wider gap can exceed the capability of the ballast.
The metal is not the same, but sodium or mercury vapor outdoor lamps are the model for the bi-xenon lamps. Issues you may have had with those (maybe not the dusk to dawn sensor switch...) will be seen in the headlamps.

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 21 Jan 2012, 20:09

Thanks Jimmy! I'll just go ahead with the swap tomorrow. I think I might still go ahead with replacing both sides. I'll leave the ballasts out of the test.

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 22 Jan 2012, 21:33

OK, I swapped the bulbs (Left side HID not working). The bulb works find on the R side. Put the R bulb in left side and no light. Other lamps in fixture light up fine. Checked fuses (HOPING!! Simple things first, right?). They are good. That leaves me with (ugh!) Ballast!!?? To prepare myself I looked online at all the usual places and no one lists a ballast by itself. Only the entire assy! No way....$900+!

Anyone have any ideas where I can get a ballast only? Bi-xenon HID, stock on the R.

grnbyk · Post by **grnbyk** » 20 Nov 2012, 06:07

This is my first post, sorry that it isn't more timely.

I just went through the same Ballast failure on my '05 xc70. There are great instructions in the forum on removing the bumper (i'm not that talented and it went well both times)

As for the ballast price, I too found several on Ebay and Amazon, etc... and $450 ea didn't sound great and I was skeptical of the $120 versions I saw that were listed as "fits many vehicles". Ultimately I went to my local Chrysler dealer and bought the same Valeo Ballast for $160 installed it and it works perfectly.

Lesson here is that, YES, the Chrysler/VW/Audi part that is multi listed does in fact work on this volvo.

SimLyons · Post by **SimLyons** » 20 Nov 2012, 13:37

Wish I had known about that part interchangeability back then. Oh well. It's fixed, sold and gone (the 2006 V70R).

I have a general complaint about all headlights (well, all of the Ballast powered lights). They are outrageously expensive to replace and not needed. There are many forms of headlights that do really great jobs without that kind of price tag to replace. Even going back to the 1950 there were combo high/low beams that lit up the roads well and the replacement costs to about $5.00. If you had a car that had 2 sets of lights (seperate high and low) they were still about $5.00....each! I don't know what that converts to today but there were no ballasts. And the housings that the bulbs are in today are built, or rather "designed" so that they too are outrageous. In the oldies the headlight assy included everything....lens, housing and bulb. And were EASY to replace! OK, I've said my piece.