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Outside temp, passenger window, passenger side mirror

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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jipsy
Posts: 5
Joined: 9 January 2012
Year and Model: 2002 V70XC
Location: massachusetts

Outside temp, passenger window, passenger side mirror

Post by jipsy »

Help! I have a lovely 2002 V70XC which my husband bought me a year and a half ago. It had 82K. I love this vehicle for the space, the handling, the comfort and safety.

HOWEVER, as far as we could tell from the dealers previous records.... The original owner had one oil change. Yes, one.

Since we bought it we have done a lot and spent a lot to finally find a competent, Indy shop.

However, we are stumped.

We replaced the steering rack, and when I got it back my outside temperature gauge wasn't working (my husbands favorite feature here in New England. The I tried to adjust the passenger mirror and that doesn't work. Then I tried to roll down the front passenger window and that doesn't work. Also, my memory buttons for the drivers seat won't work either, but I can still use the other power buttons to move the seat.

Any suggestions? I am sure it is a "module" or maybe two but I need specific instructions where to find those modules and how to test them.

Thanks for helping a gal out!

jda2000
Posts: 584
Joined: 1 April 2010
Year and Model: 04 V70 2.5T 01 V70T5
Location: Sarasota, FL

Post by jda2000 »

the PDM passenger door module is bad, replace it. This is the switch at the passenger door that controls the window, etc.

This switch also controls the outside temp sensor that is located in the R side rear view mirror.

You can buy a used one, but the part numbers have to match or it won't work. This part is pricey at the dealer and requires programming.

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regent
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Post by regent »

Can you verify that the electric harness(es) to the PDM are all the way in? I would also suggest scanning for possible communication codes before condemning an electronic module. It may just require to be initiated (this could have happened when the battery has been disconnected to change the rack, and then re-connected improperly. The manual has a procedure how to do that correctly.)
Usually, clearing the codes takes care of communication issues like yours... and saves a few bucks 8)
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
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2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired :(
1987 340 DL - retired :(

jipsy
Posts: 5
Joined: 9 January 2012
Year and Model: 2002 V70XC
Location: massachusetts

Post by jipsy »

Thanks I will try that, but now I have more problems. The right front brake caliper seized and ruined the rotor. Mechanic replaced both two days ago. Today it started seizing again. Any ideas?

jda2000
Posts: 584
Joined: 1 April 2010
Year and Model: 04 V70 2.5T 01 V70T5
Location: Sarasota, FL

Post by jda2000 »

jipsy wrote:Thanks I will try that, but now I have more problems. The right front brake caliper seized and ruined the rotor. Mechanic replaced both two days ago. Today it started seizing again. Any ideas?
is this the same mechanic that replaced the steering rack?

If so, you need a new mechanic who is familiar with volvos. Everytime this guy replaces something, something else fails
Last edited by jda2000 on 28 Jan 2012, 12:07, edited 1 time in total.

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regent
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Post by regent »

1. Did the Mech replace the caliper bracket or did he reuse the old one with the new (rebuilt) caliper? It's vital that the pad guides on the bracket are clean; build up would make the pads stick or jam. (I doubt that the new caliper is at fault.)
Would suggest that you inspect the guides (sliding surfaces) and clean them up from any build up (brake dust, rust, road dust that is); I use brake cleaner and a large flathead screwdriver (a knife will also work). Then, with the guide off the car, I put a pad in and slide it all along the guide to make sure the guide surfaces are even and the pad can move freely in and out. If not, then I would replace the bracket. Inspect and clean the pins - they should be clean, smooth, and shiny. When reassembling, ensure that brake grease only goes where it is supposed to go. Verify that the springs are not bent or loose and that they fit correctly.
2. It is a very good idea to replace the hydraulic fluid at least every 2 years (it absorbs water from the air and deteriorates with time).

Apart from jokes, if I see a flaw or a trend like the above, I would replace the Mech. Brakes are no joke! 8)
Example of Precision: Measure with a Micrometer, mark it with Chalk, and then cut it with an Axe.
Disclaimer: We (very) seldom do that

2015 BMW 335i
2015 XC60 T5 Premier Plus
2002 S60 2.4 n/a - retired :(
1987 340 DL - retired :(

fazool
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Year and Model: S60, 2007
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Post by fazool »

regent wrote:2. It is a very good idea to replace the hydraulic fluid at least every 2 years (it absorbs water from the air and deteriorates with time).

Very true and very good advice

2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)

fazool
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Post by fazool »

jipsy wrote:...right front brake caliper seized and ruined the rotor. Mechanic replaced both two days ago. Today it started seizing again. Any ideas?

umm.....he did it wrong ?

2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)

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