Volvo 850 Ignition Switch Replacement

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Jan 2012, 19:25

Ah. Grab the grey plastic part forward of that and pull it off. I think that's how it's supposed to be.

The 850's is just black. I wish I could remember what it looked like on the S70, but I think you just pulled the cap off the end of it.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q= ... UkxGxKWJDA

Post by **LamboSE5** » 30 Jan 2012, 21:04

looks like from that picture you posted that the grey plastic piece is part of the switch/the metal. Do you mean grab the grey part (with something) and pull off the beige part that is sliding in the video? It just seems like if the beige part comes off its gonna rip off the wires that are soldered to those posts.

I'll try anyway, i've had enough with this part.

Post by **LamboSE5** » 31 Jan 2012, 20:58

I got it off just now... embarrassing

Thanks all.

Nolander57 · Post by **Nolander57** » 22 Mar 2012, 15:01

ALERT!!! I forund the two deep set screws on my cover to be T-15 and not a T-25, after spending an hour trying to line the 25 up I started trying different sizes, and the T-15 was the fix. FYI

Post by **1997volvo850** » 12 Aug 2012, 14:10

My HarborFreight T-25 doesn't work on the 2 deep screws. Unfortunately my T-15 driver (3" shaft) is shorter
than the 3.5" required reach the screws and my small T-15 socket gets stuck. Off to buy a T-15 with a longer
shaft...not sure if Harbor Freight sells these with a longer shaft. Any suggestions are welcome.

David

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 12 Aug 2012, 16:04

To avoid the issue of loose connector pins, sparks,
arcs and trying to figure out which pin goes back where,
leave the cap on the ignition switch connector in place.
It's the only thing that holds all the pins in place.

The pins all fit very tightly, so it's not the easiest connector
to seperate, but it will unplug. You may find it easier if you
remove the contact block from the column first. Your call.

The entire plastic connector body unplugs from the switch.
This is what it should look like unplugged:

: 870 ign switch connector.jpg (37.11 KiB) Viewed 3962 times

It should all disconnect from the contact block at the back of
ignition switch assembly as one part with all the pins retained.

If your connector looks like this, then the cap has been removed:

: 870 ign switch connector with NO CAP.jpg (23.59 KiB) Viewed 3962 times

If you unplug it with no cap, the wires and their pins will all fall out
and sadness follows. Especially if you didn't disconnect the battery...

Post by **rspi** » 28 Mar 2013, 20:00

kanguru007 · Post by **kanguru007** » 24 Dec 2013, 22:17

The upper bolts on my 1994 2L NA 20V wagon are T10 instead of T15 or T25!!!

The ignition switch that is not returning to the correct (lights ON) position can be repaired to as-good-as-new condition and will probably last for another 20 years: open it and use pressure-pliers to repeatedly squeeze the spring-loaded metal pad to make it about 1mm wider (sorry I didn't take a picture)

revdc · Post by **revdc** » 09 Jun 2014, 13:10

Helpful post but like Croz I found the upper cover screws were t15 and not t25 after fiddling for 15min - after getting coves off pretty easy.

Thanks

revdc

superfing · Post by **superfing** » 02 Jul 2014, 13:44

Thanks for the tips. Btw the upper bolts were torx 15 on mine as well. Have both!