(My apologies for the pictures being misplaced in the text - I am hving trouble with the uploading process for the moment)
The problem here is a design flaw on P-2 series AWD sedans whereby the exhaust system is too close to the propshaft. Under just the right set of circumstances, these can interfere, causing an extremely loud grinding/ringing sound as the front muffler rubs against the rotating propshaft.
Most commonly, this seems to occur when the exhaust is warming up and then splashed with slush/ice/water. The sudden uneven cooling on one side of the exhaust pipe, causes the whole system to distort. Essentially it acts like a giant thermostat - expanding and contracting different on different sides, resulting in a visible bending.
When this happens, the lip of the muffler presses against the driveshaft, leaving a lathe-like groove.
Volvo knows about this design flaw but is not covering this under warranty (personally, I am appealing to VolVo Cars of NA for some relief on the repair parts). There is a service bulletin, attached below. The parts kit I got from my dealer was a different number, but did have all the right parts.
The old hanger system is comprised of a simple crossmember with one single hook and a rubber exhaust hanger. This suspends a hook welded to the exhaust pipe.
The repair is easy enough (in theory). It's only three 10mm bolts but there are some challenges I wanted to warn you of. My "ten minute repair" turned into ten times that because of annoying little things. Hence this write up.
There is very little room under there because you are working at the centerline of the vehicle. I don't have a lift or tall ramps so I had to double jack my car up (max height from jack, install jackstands, put jack on blocks and jack again). This is very dangerous and must be done with extreme caution. I had two jackstands and two sets of large safety blocks made from RR ties, in addition to the chocked wheels and floor jack. Be careful.
Once under the car, removing the old hanger system is easy. Two 10mm bolts which are not very tough to remove with a simple hand wrench.
A problem I found was that there already is a hook on the exhaust pipe and it is in the way of the new bracketry. After installing, removing, reinstalling and re-removing this I had to cut the hook off. Save yourself time and trouble. Hacksaw this off before starting the new installation. Its junk steel and after 1/3rd cutting you can snap it off with a sharp rap from a handy wrench.
The next difficulty is the clamp on hooks for the exhaust pipe. It has to be stretched open, then closed back up and the bolt threaded in. WHen you open and close this it twists a little so lining up the bolt is trick. I had to clamp it closed with long nose vise grips, then find the threaded holes.
Hold the new crossmember up to approximate where the exhaust clamp will go, then get its bolt threaded before doing anything else.
Also, the crossmember has two sets of holes. You will use the round ones not the obround ones.
Once you have everything in place, start getting the rubber hangers inserted. These go over a lip to minimize slipping off, but it makes removal tough (especially in cramped quarters). So try to ut them on only once. Spray the holes with WD-40 to help themn slip on - this will wash/burn away shortly upon running.
The old exhaust hook is really in the way and you will need a swivel and a truckload of patience to get the new bolt tightened once the hangers are in place.
Mine is now in place and secured in both directions. The muffler is a little further from the propshaft, but now I have a new bolt (from the exhaust clamp) near the propshaft. I think everything will be fine and will report back once we have some slush to test it on.
I saw this kit on line for about $165. My local dealer tried to charge me $229 (with tax) but I talked him down to $156.
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