Quick On Car ABS Module Testing 1998 S70 T5

[MoVolvos]

Hi Everyone,

In my other post I mentioned a link showing how to have the ABS Module working w/o a replacement or removal. Well, I try it today and it works... BUT. THAT IS A BIG BUT. I would consider this method a good way to TEST the MODULE as the ABS light IS out. This trick temporally force the bad/broken/unsolder-ed contacts in the Module to press together.

Here is the link. REMEMBER THIS IS ONLY a TEMP Turning off of the ABS light to indicate a problem with the Module. The Modules should be soldered so you know it is safely repaired and not just shutting off the ABS light. Send it in and have it done right but meanwhile you can test it without removing it while waiting for the replacement to arrive.

Volvo S70-V70 Abs Module
http://www.carinstructions.com/volvo-s7 ... bs-module/

Blessings,

Ben

[Matty Moo]

Realistically, it does nothing if the pump power pins are cracked. It works for the Data side, but not the pump-power side.

It's a bad idea all around doing that because you stress the power connections coming into the module. Resistance+amperage=heat. 30 amps makes a lot of heat, the type of heat that melts things. We don't want that, once that part of the module melts, it takes the harness with it.

I wouldn't suggest doing that any longer than what you would need to pass inspection.

[MoVolvos]

Thanks Matt. I will go ahead and remove it. I wanted to see if I can tell if the Module was bad. Trying to figure out all the issues with my car and see what it will cost to fix it. Not sure if my car is worth keeping because it is in rough shape. CA does not require a safety just smog for Registration. Thanks again!

Blessings,

BKM

[MoVolvos]

Finally got to the Module and decided to take a crack at it.

1) Used both a 6 point 4mm and 5/32 sockets. Not much difference in the two as both fit very well
2) After loosening used a 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch diameter black rubber and cut a hole in the center to hold the socket for easier turning of the screws and also as not to lose the socket or screws during removal and installation
3) Used utility knife to pry up the lock washers and finish removal with a real, real small flat head
4) Crack several edges and broke two areas screw driver tip wide and decided to used one of those areas to insert and pry open
5) DAMAGED traces on Circuit Board by having screw driver in too far when prying the lid open. (It turns out the traces were PERHAPS just a logo as it is working.)
6) Thought the board was gone in the beginning but soldered anyways and was little sloppy so I know the board can take a lot of heat. Best to remove the old solder with a suction device as the old and new solder had a very difficult time with each other.

Remove the air box and MAF only and it seemed to have an adequate amount of room. Take your time with the screws do not drop and pry open lid slowly. Next car I will try a hair dryer or heat gun as the sealant was not hard. If you can solder you can do this job. Knowing what I know however I would send it to MATTY. It is still safer and with a lifetime warranty. God had mercy on the wiping out of those traces which at this point did not seem to affect the Module.

Blessings,

BKM