oil under spark plug cover

[jtwerp]

I am sure the breather kit needs replacing but the car just is not worth it due to multiple other problems, is there a "quick fix" just until I can get another car. Can I some how clean out this unit to get it to work some-what properly for a couple of weeks?

[Ben850]

To clean it you would still need to remove the manifold. For $30 more you could pick up the oil separator and attempt to reuse your old hoses. You would probably still need clamps, but they're cheap.

[JordanW]

Oil filler cap and it's rubber o-ring/gasket. The metal tangs on the fill cap bend and loosen over time and the rubber gasket is really only good for about a year or so. You should be able to get both from FCP Groton - you might even be able to pick them up and save on shipping depending on how far away you are from them...

[misha]

Oil filler cap and it's rubber o-ring/gasket.

Just replace oil filler cap rubber gasket,clean the oil under the spark plug cover and inspect the pcv hose which is going from spark plug cover(when you remove spark plug cover,you will see it...it might be loosened a bit)....and you're done.

[byeboy]

Agree with the oil cap. Also, I got some relief by carefullly removing the gasket in mine, then turning it over...but the oil started coming back.
be sure to check back-blow through the dipstick tube, then through the oil cap to see if you are really huffin'

You cannot 'bottle-up' that pressure, or you crank seals will go, then you are in big $$$.

I imagine a clever fellow could come up with a simple "Baffle Can" to let the crankcase blow its pressure ( perhaps through a hose slipped over the dipstick tube?) . After all, the Oil Trap is just an empty box with a simple baffle that allows the oil to drain back to the crankcase, and the pressure to escape through that tube that comes up under the intake, and drops down into the top of the engine under the spark plug cover (make sure that hose or elbow is not split, ot that could be your problem!)

[SimLyons]

When I was a professional engine guy I had a number of customers who ran stationary engines (diesel) and they ran full load 24/7 for months. They's eventually start "blowing by" oil, first by the drop and eventually large amounts. The quick fix was to put a 5 gallon jug where they'd run the hose from the rocker covers to the jug. The maintenance crews would make the circuits where's they swap the jugs and pour the "blown by" oil back into the engine.

They couldn't shut down. It was hot and dry and irrigation season. I knew a mechanic who solved his blowby problems (seriously!) by pouring several ounces of Bon-Ami into the intake downstream of the turbo and ran it partial load for a few minuted. It was a fast and cheap hone job and it got the job done! Amazing what one can find out in the industrial world!

[wheelsup]

I took the dipstick out of the tube and put a heater hose on the tube and routed it across the radiator and down under the car. It allows the crankcase pressure to breathe. Bad for the environment but I've lost minimal oil ever since then. Oil is cheap anyway. Worst case is you lose a little bit but just keep it topped off.

[Ben850]

If you seal up the filler cap you are not addressing the cause. You will eventually start blowing out cam seals and possibly the rear main seal. You will have to drive with the dipstick partially open to alleviate the pressure.

I know because that is exactly what the previous owner did to my engine. The rear main seal leaks now but I can deal with it until I can borrow my friends engine lift and driveway.

I changed the plugs a few days ago and found the results there as well. About a half inch of oil was also in each spark plug tunnel because the '93 original plug boots don't have a tight seal.( I changed those as well.)

Good luck with which ever way you choose to go.

[rspi]

I'd drill a hole in the oil cap and drive a few more weeks.