Worst Oil Change of My life!!
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2funky4myself
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 26 Jul 2012, 13:20
- Year and Model: Volvo 850 Turbo 1995
- Location: CA
so first oil change since i bought a used 850. everythings going fine till i have to take off the filter. i tried a filter wrench first no budge then the nylon wrap and it crushed my filter! then the old hammer and screwdiver and nothing. im all out of ideas! 
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Fish stick88
- Posts: 543
- Joined: 24 Jun 2010, 12:31
- Year and Model: 1994 - 850 Sedan
- Location: Iowa
Its already crushed. Big deal. Just grab a big pair of channel locks and get it off. I frequently do it to mine, as I don't have a big enough wrench. Find the sturdy part of the filter too. Probably around the open end, or the far end, not the middle.
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... That's what gets you.
'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles
'94 850 Sedan - 160k miles
Dang!! I hate it when a Gorilla gets trained to do Oil changes!!...especially when you cannot get access to the rim on the base of the filter...
Have you been trying the screwdriver/hammer method on that rim where it mates to the block? (How'd you get up in there. anyways??!!)...It appears you have already breached the housing, so I suggest puncture the bottom and allow all the oil to drain out of the filter, then, after it has a chance to drip down (go take a break), I'd peel the housing away as much as possible (the filter portion, spring and pressure disc will come out when the housing is ripped away giving you 'inside-out' access to the mounting face of the element, which will have a number of oil holes punched.
Here are two ideas...I have never tried either. They are just ideas that popped up, try at your own risk, but they are what I would go out and try if I was in your shoes....
IDEA #1: Make up a three fingered spanner to fit fingers in these holes (the fingers can be bolts...get another filter of the same brand to use as a model...all manufacturers use different sizes/number of holes, so it has to be the same). I would place the three bolts (better than two, as this could be a 'last desperate attempt' in the "Model" filter (short, but with the threads in the holes for extra grip), then get a large, heavy washer (Farm or heavy equipment store), then weld (or have welded) the bolts to the washer (which will probably distort your model filter, and perhaps warp it a bit, so it become trash at this point. Then weld a large nut (5/8" ?) to the center, use a socket with a short extension and a breaker bar, and it HAS to come off.
IDEA #2: After the base is exposed by ripping off the canister, use high heat to work over the portion that the block spigot screws into...this will also soften the rubber-like gasket. I'd try a Butane 'Micro Torch' for this...Do NOT try this if you have been running rich and the oil is "gassy".
Like I said, I have never tried either of these...and someone will o doubt post a much simpler solution. Auto Repair Shops must run into this all the time....have you tried Googling "Cannot un-stick Oil Filter?"
Have you been trying the screwdriver/hammer method on that rim where it mates to the block? (How'd you get up in there. anyways??!!)...It appears you have already breached the housing, so I suggest puncture the bottom and allow all the oil to drain out of the filter, then, after it has a chance to drip down (go take a break), I'd peel the housing away as much as possible (the filter portion, spring and pressure disc will come out when the housing is ripped away giving you 'inside-out' access to the mounting face of the element, which will have a number of oil holes punched.
Here are two ideas...I have never tried either. They are just ideas that popped up, try at your own risk, but they are what I would go out and try if I was in your shoes....
IDEA #1: Make up a three fingered spanner to fit fingers in these holes (the fingers can be bolts...get another filter of the same brand to use as a model...all manufacturers use different sizes/number of holes, so it has to be the same). I would place the three bolts (better than two, as this could be a 'last desperate attempt' in the "Model" filter (short, but with the threads in the holes for extra grip), then get a large, heavy washer (Farm or heavy equipment store), then weld (or have welded) the bolts to the washer (which will probably distort your model filter, and perhaps warp it a bit, so it become trash at this point. Then weld a large nut (5/8" ?) to the center, use a socket with a short extension and a breaker bar, and it HAS to come off.
IDEA #2: After the base is exposed by ripping off the canister, use high heat to work over the portion that the block spigot screws into...this will also soften the rubber-like gasket. I'd try a Butane 'Micro Torch' for this...Do NOT try this if you have been running rich and the oil is "gassy".
Like I said, I have never tried either of these...and someone will o doubt post a much simpler solution. Auto Repair Shops must run into this all the time....have you tried Googling "Cannot un-stick Oil Filter?"
- rspi
- Posts: 7304
- Joined: 05 Nov 2011, 10:40
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
- Has thanked: 34 times
- Been thanked: 72 times
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
Dang ByeBoy, lol.
Hey man, had the exact same problem on a 960 I purchease a while ago. Paid more to get the old filter off than I did for the car (just kidding). Tear the rest of the filter off, seal up the carnage, top off the oil, wash the car and sell it fast.
Now for what I really did. Tear away the rest of the filter housing like ByeBoy suggested and you'll be left with the toughest part of the filter. At that point I kinda did what ByeBoy suggested, only in a simpler way. I used 2 screw drivers that had small enough tips to get in those holes and were long enough for me to hook my pipe wrench around 1 and use the other 1 as leverage. Got the thing off in about 10 minutes once I started trying that method. Darn thing was slippery with all that oil on it. I guess a couple of long screws that were threaded for those filter holes would have been better but when you're changing oil late at night, as it seems you were (I was doing the same thing), you just dont feel the need to go buy screws, special tools and such, when you are looking at the end of the tunnel, regardless of how far the light is (it just looks so darn close).
My wife use to always advise me not to work on things after 9 pm. Just to late in the day to have a clear head and the energy to work through it if something goes wrong.
Hey man, had the exact same problem on a 960 I purchease a while ago. Paid more to get the old filter off than I did for the car (just kidding). Tear the rest of the filter off, seal up the carnage, top off the oil, wash the car and sell it fast.
Now for what I really did. Tear away the rest of the filter housing like ByeBoy suggested and you'll be left with the toughest part of the filter. At that point I kinda did what ByeBoy suggested, only in a simpler way. I used 2 screw drivers that had small enough tips to get in those holes and were long enough for me to hook my pipe wrench around 1 and use the other 1 as leverage. Got the thing off in about 10 minutes once I started trying that method. Darn thing was slippery with all that oil on it. I guess a couple of long screws that were threaded for those filter holes would have been better but when you're changing oil late at night, as it seems you were (I was doing the same thing), you just dont feel the need to go buy screws, special tools and such, when you are looking at the end of the tunnel, regardless of how far the light is (it just looks so darn close).
My wife use to always advise me not to work on things after 9 pm. Just to late in the day to have a clear head and the energy to work through it if something goes wrong.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
- rspi
- Posts: 7304
- Joined: 05 Nov 2011, 10:40
- Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
- Location: Cincinnati OH
- Has thanked: 34 times
- Been thanked: 72 times
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Contact:
Contact rspi..
I think option 2 is your choice here, if you have the time to order the tool and wait for it to arrive.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos
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DrewsT5
- Posts: 56
- Joined: 28 Mar 2011, 23:47
- Year and Model: '95 850 T5 Wagon
- Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Dang, that looks like a hot mess there. I agree that the second method outlined in that YouTube video is the best option, except time is not on your side to order the part and wait for the delivery. You might need to take a sawzall to that thing to get it out of the way and maybe fabricate something similar to that tool. I just changed my oil yesterday and fortunately I didn't have a gorilla put it on before. I just used an oil filter grabber from IPD: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6186/110 ... er-grabber. You might want to pick up something like this for next time. It's got nice long handles for good leverage. Don't get one of those strap tools. That's probably what got it so tight in the 1st place.
Hope you get it off without doing too much damage.
Hope you get it off without doing too much damage.
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