needs link to step by step oil change for '97 850

[volvoITIs]

Hi.I just boughtthis Volvo after driving wranglers for the past 15 years or so. It's a huge adjustment from one to the other. I love this Volvo more every time I drive it.
It would really be helpful to find step by step oil change directions including appropriate oil grade and neccessary tools for the job. I found the 1995 owners manual post to be fabulous and helpful... thanks so much! P;ease lemme know bout any links there might be for help. 1997 Volvo SW 850.
I'm glad to have this sight available. Thank you.

[Ozark Lee]

Your '97 has a standard screw on filter. Avoid auto parts store filters since their check valves are lame at best. Go with either Mann, Mahle, or Volvo OEM for the filter. I buy Mann filters by the case but I now have 4 Volvos in the driveway.

Beyond that it is straight forward. Use a 19mm socket to remove the drain plug and drain the old oil. The filters don't have a socketed end so the strap type filter wrench is the choice to remove the old filter. A light coat of oil on the new filter gasket and make sure that the old gasket didn't stick to the sump pan. Screw it on until it touches and then I give it another turn by hand. Replace the aluminum crush washer on the drain plug (I buy them by the dozen as well) and put it back in.

I use 10W30 Valvoline MaxLife synblend but oil brand selection always starts a 40 or 50 post heated thread. Any good qulity oil is just fine. With a filter change you will take about 7.5 quarts of oil, I just buy 2 gallons for an oil change since it is much cheaper by the gallon than the quart. No matter what you choose to do put in 6 quarts, start the engine and then check the oil level. Top off until you hit the full mark on the dipstick. Check for leaks around the plug and the filter and if there are none call it good to go.

...Lee

[meine39]

A couple more tips:

1. I get the engine up to operating temperature before removing the drain plug - the oil drains faster and more completely IMO. Remember it's HOT though so take precautions against getting splashed.
2. Remove the filler cap before removing the drain plug - oil drains faster having an "air draw" above the oil pan.
3. Prefill/saturate the new filter with fresh motor oil before spinning it on to shorten the amount of time the engine is without oil pressure on initial startup after the change.

I agree with Lee on choice of motor oil - as long as it meets/exceeds the API specs and weight recommended by Volvo, its fine. Believe it or not, Walmart has a great selection of motor oil in a variety of brands and capacities, and usually is well-priced.

There's really nothing at all exotic about a Volvo oil change - all the steps here and in Lee's post apply to any car really (well ok Volvos and BMWs have HUGE sump capacities, which I think might explain part of their engine longevity). The most challenge you'll have coming from a Wrangler is that the motor is turned sideways

BTW we bought our 850 from my brother, who is a long time Wrangler owner - just attended a Jeep show in York, PA with him - those Wrangler owners are a loyal lot!

[jblackburn]

One other thing: get a good set of ramps. They will prove incredibly useful for other things, and I get very nervous working under a car on jack stands. I have a pair of Rhino Ramps I got at Autozone for $30. You may be able to squeeze under an NA model, but I definitely can't get under my T5 to change the oil or even get at the oil plug.

A rubber glove for the most part will work to spin off the oil filter unless it's on real tight.

[cn90]

Here is the link:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... o-install/

This is what I do:

1. Change oil after a drive, so the oil is hot...but wait one hour after a drive so the oil cools down a bit.
Wear rubber gloves.

2. Drive the car up my wood ramps (made out of 2x10 lumber, 3 layers).
This is my BMW but it shows you the car on wood ramp:


3. The drain plug is 17-mm wrench IIRC (not 19-mm).

4. Oil Filter: I prefer Bosch or Mahle type because it has the edges for the tool to grab.
Mann filter is round and difficult to grab.
Go to local autoparts store and buy the Bosch Oil Filter.
Then find the appropriate tool: I think it is (93 mm diameter and 15 flutes) such as Lisle 54780.

5. To remove the old oil filter, I use the that tool.
- Remove old filter and gasket.
- Prime the new filter with fresh oil up to about 1 inch from the gasket.
- To tighten new filter (apply a thin smear of oil on the gasket), then use the tool to tighten about1/2 turn after the gasket makes contact with the sump.

6. To tighten the drain bolt, I have been using this 5:30 ---> 7 o'clock trick for 25 years. Pic from my BMW but idea is the same:


Don't forget to add your favorite oil.

[vjaneczko]

lol, this is great - should be a Sticky!!

[asplymouth]

it must be common for Volvo owners to have jeeps. lol. i have a 97 Volvo 850 wagon, 2001 Volvo v70 t-5, and a 77 CJ-7 Golden Eagle.

[rmmagow]

Really, 7.5qts with filter change?? My 98 V70, 2.4L turbo should take the same then? I've always just dumped in 6qts. If it really 7.5, than that's why my dipstick never comes up to the full mark. I think I got the 6qts out of the owner's manual.

[jblackburn]

Woah now.

It's 6 qts. 6.1, technically.

98's don't come up to the full mark, but 6 qts will bring it to the halfway point on the dipstick if you've got an orange-handled one. Not sure why that is, but that's where I always fill it to if I need to top it off.

oil capacity.jpg (53.6 KiB) Viewed 5035 times

[KlubMarcus]

Woah now. It's 6 qts. 6.1, technically. 98's don't come up to the full mark, but 6 qts will bring it to the halfway point on the dipstick if you've got an orange-handled one. Not sure why that is, but that's where I always fill it to if I need to top it off.

I dump in 5 qts. and fill up to mark. I've never been able to get all the motor oil out.