would water pump work without timing belt HoopLa...

[jblackburn]

Hey, you're the one that owns 2 Volvos. Can't expect them not to want attention every now and then.

A Volvo's like a clingy, needy girlfriend. It wants attention and money spent on it

[xHeart]

Why the belt wouldn't come off from the bottom of crank?
I am guessing pulling the rubber in off of the thumb would make enough room for the belt to slide out, any comments?

a thumb with black rubber ring...

MVS_0228.jpg (1.03 MiB) Viewed 736 times

I am also guessing this rubber ring prevents belt from malfunctioning, keep the space just tight enough for it to keep the close hug and not slide.

Could I slide out the rubber ing, and put it back on after the belt install?

[jblackburn]

Did you already take the metal shield around the pulley off?

And yeah, that stopper thing is right in the way. Just pull the belt off everything else and you can get to the water pump. I wouldn't pull it off the crankshaft pulley because it's just A PAIN to get back in between the pulley and whatever that rubber thing is.

[xHeart]

Did you already take the metal shield around the pulley off?

Yes. Located around the bottom right quadrant of crank, the metal plate cover was held by two bolts, it is out in cleaning pile.

[xHeart]

No success with water pump removal. It cemented harder than i imagined. Thinking about using pry bar as a chisel to wedge between the two mating surface. The pointing arrow may be the widest and most accessible surface.

pointing arrow where pry bar may work, not sure, i have to try...

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Would PB Blaster help soften the bond?

[rspi]

No offense to anyone here but these are the instructions I always use to do my timing belt. Read through them and go get that job done, this Marathon timing belt job is driving me nuts.
http://www.happywrenching.com/volvo/850 ... ement.html

Don't take off anything that link doesn't tell you to. As for your rollers, it's not enough that they roll smoothly, they need to be tight. If when spun as fast as you can spin them, they make any noise at all, you should replace them. They should be quiet.

[xHeart]

No offense to anyone here but these are the instructions I always use to do my timing belt. Read through them and go get that job done, this Marathon timing belt job is driving me nuts.
http://www.happywrenching.com/volvo/850 ... ement.html

Don't take off anything that link doesn't tell you to. As for your rollers, it's not enough that they roll smoothly, they need to be tight. If when spun as fast as you can spin them, they make any noise at all, you should replace them. They should be quiet.

Reassuring Robert. It always adds to the clarity when reading several sources, thankfully.

a quick recap...
Timing belt marks are locked-in with IPD tool.
I have serpentine belt and the tensioner completely off, put aside.
I have thoroughly inspected the two belts, and it is clean of any mark of deterioration, no visible erosion.
I was planning on replacing just the water pump, hence, the timing belt is off its route, but not pulled out from the bottom of crank, tucked away carefully and securely tied. However the crank sprocket cover was removed.
The roller and pulley are not removed, but will check again carefully for any signs of wear, play, noise.

After a good number of knocks with wooden mallet, the water pump would not yield, but more coolant has escaped.

scratching head...
Like the belt removal is depended on removing each tensioner, I wonder, if water pump removal, in some mechanical way, tied to removing roller and the pulley, or the invisible 8th bolt?

I promised to not go pass 5 instead of 6 days on radiator job.

You guys are like pen friends of 70's era.
Many thanks.

[rspi]

You have a new water pump in your hand. You can count the bolt holes and locations and make sure you have all of them out.

If the timing belt has more than 25,000 miles on it and you have to take it off, you should go ahead and replace it and reset your 70,000 mile counter.

[xHeart]

You have a new water pump in your hand. You can count the bolt holes and locations and make sure you have all of them out.

If the timing belt has more than 25,000 miles on it and you have to take it off, you should go ahead and replace it and reset your 70,000 mile counter.

Per service record the belt has 20k and more on it, I will order a replacement belt.
Sunday was set aside for family hence no time for repair, but counted the bolt on new pump. I have all seven out.
Read through the instructions this morning one more time, and did not see one missed step.
It is a start of work week for me, which means little time.
The water pump won't come off, ran out of ideas.
To remain focused, I will take out the rollers, and then make another attempt on water pump.
Now thinking about the replacing all tb parts, including roller, pulley and the tensioner.

[xHeart]

Are you going to replace the tensioner and idler pullies? If so, be extra careful not to strip the tensioner roller bracket bolt. Use a good quality T40 bit. I stripped 2 of them and had to replace the roller with the bracket on. The bad part about that is that it's impossible to tighten the bolt on the roller with the bracket still on the motor. I put some sealant on the threads threads to stop the nut from backing off. Then I put a notch in the last thread as an extra safe precaution. Now I check it every 5k. Real pain in the butt if you strip that bolt, don't do it. To me it's the hardest part of the job.

Now that the water pump is off, I am moving to removing the T45 on the roller. With a 3/8 adapter, I would use a 15mm combination to fit the space. So I have solve the tight space problem. I Would pull it from 3 o,clock to turn it counterclockwise. Is there a better method, wrench position, or tooling?