I have been having trouble I think w/in my ETSystem. Here is a link to my previous posts concerning it: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=50031
I no longer think that it is going into limp mode, but that it is a problem w/ the throttle that makes it "limp". I stuck the code reader on it today and came up only w/ the 0650 code. I then started the car. I pressed the throttle and it surged then the engine died w/in a second. I started it again and the throttle was unresponsive. This is the first time I had this happen when the engine wasn't hot. However, I am in Kansas and the weather is very hot. I then stopped the engine and hooked up the code reader. This time i got the P0121 code along w/ the 0650 : Throttle unit, potentiometer 1. I am still researching this code on this site, but thought I would post ASAP to possibly get some help.
Thanks
P0121
Well, I guess I am starting with the MAF. Just ordered one via Amazon. Decided to go bosche. Of course the car is running fine today. Not as hot I guess. Free trial upgrade to amazon prime so I paid 3.99 for one day shipping for a total of about $100. Should get it tomorrow. Won't know if it fixes the problem unless it doesn't and the car acts up again. Then I will go for the ETM, probaby the Xmodex or whatever it is called. On my previous post everyone just kept telling me that I needed to get a cheap code reader, and now that I did and pulled some codes, nobody is chiming in. I have been doing lots of research on this website. Seems like it is just guess and check. Not sure that the $20 code reader has helped much.
Put the new Boshe MAF in on Aug. 1st. The car has been driven often over the last 2 weeks. I have tried to induce the problem and everything has been fine. Today, while in the city, the problem occured again. I unhooked the batter for 15 min, and rehooked, no deals. I then did it for 30, no deals, then 20 min more and it worked. I'm almost convinced that the unhooking the battery doesn't have anything to do w/ it, but since that's how I've got it to work before I have just stuck with it. To me, it seems as if something gets hot and makes the problem occur. However, it has ran many hot days w/o the problem. SO I guess now I go to the shop and see if they can tell me. I am guessing it is the ETM, but istead of blindlyu throwing money at the problem again, I will see if they can tell me for definite what the problem is. I am very reluctant to bring it in, but there are not many options. Thanks again for getting us home VOLVO.
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precopster
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You were probably right to try the MAF first. The P0121 or ECM-951F code is usually a failed communication b/w sensing board and contact strip whether it's sensor 1 or 2.
Best to have Volvo sweep test the ETM first. This test is definitive in ruling out whether there is a board problem or contact film problem.
We have a forum called Don's ETM Room at Matthews so lots of info there about solutions.
New ETMs can be initialised by a system called Vedis II by Autoland Scientech (though this system is far too expensive to buy for the average home mechanic) Many auto electrical or euro repairers may have this system so no need for stealership.
One solution is find best price on new ETM then shop for indie repairer with this system.
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Best to have Volvo sweep test the ETM first. This test is definitive in ruling out whether there is a board problem or contact film problem.
We have a forum called Don's ETM Room at Matthews so lots of info there about solutions.
New ETMs can be initialised by a system called Vedis II by Autoland Scientech (though this system is far too expensive to buy for the average home mechanic) Many auto electrical or euro repairers may have this system so no need for stealership.
One solution is find best price on new ETM then shop for indie repairer with this system.
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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rmmagow
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You didn't waste your money on the code reader. Did you strap the cable plugging into the MAF with a big wire-tie? I read about that here and actually did it on my 98. All my MAF codes are gone now and I'm running a 29 dollar ebay maf on the thing now (to be replaced soon w/bosch).
1998 V70 AWD 228K - Daily Driver
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
Thanks for the replies gentlemen (or ladies, how do I know). I am fixin to call the shop right now. I think the MAF seems to be working fine. Again, this is an intermitent problem that seems to happen when the engine is warm (but not often). The only time it happened when the engine was not hot, was when I was in kansas in 100+ degree weather. I have been using Don's Etm Room. So what you are saying Precopster is, shop for an ETM and then have my shop install it (as it is usually worth bit $$ to buy my own part even if they have to put it on.) I have also been reading about the Modex rebuild where I should not need a software upgrade. ANy and all comments have been helpful
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
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precopster
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I've seen the Vedis II in action a nice system but not all independants will have it.
New ETMs cost around $525-$540 depending. (one of the site sponsors on the above banner carries the 36001822 part number for around $530)
The reloading fee is also not expensive at dealers again shop around. It is true that the design is flawed due to the carbon film but from what I've been able to gather lately is that ALL throttle bodies will have circuit problems eventually. Look on ebay it is full of electronic throttle bodies from Bosch to Hitachi that will all eventually fail. I would rather a new circuit board than pay almost $500 for a used one with a non contacting sensor (which you can DIY for around $140)
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New ETMs cost around $525-$540 depending. (one of the site sponsors on the above banner carries the 36001822 part number for around $530)
The reloading fee is also not expensive at dealers again shop around. It is true that the design is flawed due to the carbon film but from what I've been able to gather lately is that ALL throttle bodies will have circuit problems eventually. Look on ebay it is full of electronic throttle bodies from Bosch to Hitachi that will all eventually fail. I would rather a new circuit board than pay almost $500 for a used one with a non contacting sensor (which you can DIY for around $140)
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
The car is at the shop. It needs a new ETM. Could not get it to reset to drive up the hill to home. Quoted at $1060 for new vovlo etm 2 year warranty parts and labor. 2000 xc 70. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Thanks
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precopster
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Guess if you couldn't drive it does limit your choices.
The other day I bought a new battery for $220 to get me home as had gone flat. The alternator died and the old battery was only a year old. Now I have a spare.
The turbo inlet arrangement makes the ETM difficult to access but total bill there seems on the high side. Negotiate the cost and see if they can flex your way. 2 hrs labour tops on this job inc reload time
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The other day I bought a new battery for $220 to get me home as had gone flat. The alternator died and the old battery was only a year old. Now I have a spare.
The turbo inlet arrangement makes the ETM difficult to access but total bill there seems on the high side. Negotiate the cost and see if they can flex your way. 2 hrs labour tops on this job inc reload time
Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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