New crankshaft seal leaking!

Krampus · Post by **Krampus** » 21 Sep 2012, 00:18

I just replaced my front crankshaft seal while I was changing the timing belt. When I did so, I misunderstood what I was reading in the "step by step volvo" tutorial on changing the timing belt and pushed the seal as far back as it would go. There was a line that made me think I needed to push it in further to seal it properly than just by hand. After I got it all back together, I found a mention of "don't push it back too far!" Too late, unfortunately. Once I started it up, the seal, of course, began leaking oil. I was kind of hoping that the oil pressure would force the seal back to the front of the crankshaft where it belongs and stop the leak. Is this too much to hope for? Do I basically need to take it back apart and reseat it to the proper depth? If I use a mechanics pick to yank the seal, will that compromise the seal to the point that I need to get a new one? (Obviously I'll probably puncture it a bit, but in the pressure of the engine maybe it'd hold the gap shut...)

Any suggestions (and comments about my poor literacy skills) are welcome.

- Jack

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Sep 2012, 01:02

Unfortunately you will need a new one. You could pull it out by stabbing it through the middle and then sealing it with RTV but considering the cost of a new seal I would suggest the easy path of installing a new quality seal.

Krampus · Post by **Krampus** » 21 Sep 2012, 01:30

Dagnabit... I'll swing by IPD tomorrow and get one. I should just seat it a millimeter or so past flush, right?

Post by **billofdurham** » 21 Sep 2012, 11:40

Between 1 and 3mm is ideal. Carefully check the front surface of the crankshaft where the old seal was sitting. You will probably find that grit has worn small grooves in the surface. The new seal needs to be seated just behind the grooves thus making contact with a smooth surface.

Bill.

Krampus · Post by **Krampus** » 21 Sep 2012, 15:10

The guy at IPD (who's name I feel like a jerk for forgetting since he's been super helpful both times I've been in) suggested checking for nicks in the crankshaft as well and using either an emoryboard or 2000 grit sandpaper to carefully smooth them out. I also bought a pully-holder tool, so I should be able to whip it all off much faster this time and fix it up. I'll let you know how it goes.

Post by **jimmy57** » 21 Sep 2012, 19:10

Unless you remove oil pump for access do not try to clean the sealing surface. You can't tell what you're doing and the grit from sandpaper will enter the engine and you could have a seal leak due to seal wear.

240Dad · Post by **240Dad** » 26 Oct 2012, 10:45

I have a similar problem but I don't think I put my seal in far enough. There is a small bevel on the casing that the shaft is centered in. I installed my seal flush with the bevel so that it was just barely in. I think the manual said 1.5 cm but I am metrically challenged.
So, my plan is to take it all apart and tap the seal further back. My question is, since there is so much room in there, why not drive it back far enough to put a second one in front of it?
Thanks,
Bill