Stuck spark plug won't turn (s70 1998, aluminum block)

Post by **wheelsup** » 17 Oct 2012, 12:15

It's funny when you read how people say "technically you're not supposed to use antiseize" I just have to laugh. They've obviously never had an issue removing a lug nut, spark plug, or other bolt. A small amount of antiseize never hurt anything.

volvobaggen · Post by **volvobaggen** » 17 Oct 2012, 19:07

Actually NGK says you should not use antiseize.www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

Post by **wheelsup** » 17 Oct 2012, 20:17

Yes I know manufacturers and folks reading those directions say you shouldn't. That's my point. There is lab conditions and then there is real world conditions. Personally, I've never had a car not start or a wheel fall off using anti-seize.

volvobaggen · Post by **volvobaggen** » 17 Oct 2012, 20:32

I share your view on antiseize, and hate when the rust grips bolts and make them stuck. I spray the whole undercarriage with oil anually and use antiseize on bolts and screws.

But I´m not using it on sparkplugs. There are just to many unknown side effects to consider. Should i use copper or aluminium antiseize? Also, the sparkplug needs proper ground and ability to transfer excess heat to the head. Last time I changed plugs, I smeared a thin coat of engine oil on the windings. In some years, we will see if it was a good idea or not.

Post by **cn90** » 18 Oct 2012, 08:07

I use anti-seize on spark plugs for 25 years, zero problems.

You can read more about antiseize debates in BMW, Honda forums here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showth ... p?t=405805

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2 ... miles.html

Post by **wheelsup** » 18 Oct 2012, 09:26

That BMW crowd is rough. Glad it's not like a pissing contest here whenever a topic comes up.

As far as over torquing with anti-seize goes, I'd bet my left nut if you didn't put anti-seize on, you'll be using significantly more torque to remove the plugs in the future, possibly snapping them. There is much more of a danger in that happening then using the correct torque # with anti-seize stripping the threads on the head. You could always reduce the torque applied by a couple ft-lbs if you were nervous.

Post by **cn90** » 18 Oct 2012, 12:38

Actually I use anti-seize and add (yes add) 2-3 ft-lb to the published torque value on my BMW.
This is because in the BMW E39, sometimes the spark plugs work themselves loose!
I have never had any issues removing my spark plugs.

Sp plug threads damage, in 99% of the cases, are from cross-threading and not overtorquing.
In the links above, I posted the amount of torque required to destroy a spark plug (see the links above).
At ~ 100 ft-lb, the spark plugs threaded portion break apart while the cylinder head threads are still good.

Get a junk engine and play with it and you will see that this notion of over-torque (a few ft-lb) is a myth that is qualified for the Myth Buster shows LOL!

Post by **Mr Sabetodo** » 18 Oct 2012, 13:07

I'd twist it out, screaming threads & all, & put in a helicoil, or whatever they sell locally. A helicoil kit is probably cheaper than having it done, but it's worth something to blame someone else if it screws up.

hyp2bsqr · Post by **hyp2bsqr** » 18 Oct 2012, 13:21

Another way to get a stuck plug out is to run the engine until its at temperature. Pull the wires, spray PB Blaster or other thin oil in hole, take a can of computer key board duster and turn upside down and spray the freezing liquid on the plug. Then work the plug back and forth until it comes clean.

Antiseize comes in several compositions for various use cases. Copper and aluminum reactive when brought into contact with each other. There is a nickel compound that works very well and holds up under heat. I have used nickel just about everywhere on Volvos and other vehicles including the dreaded O2 sensor threads and never had a problem with emissions fouling or the like. In fact I've used CRC Brake Clean to clean O2 sensors without issue, alcohol and CRC on MAF sensors - no issue. There are a lot of myths of what can and cannot be done. The real key is knowing your chemicals and compounds and what they react with and stay away from creating those reactions unless that is the desired affect.

Post by **Mr Sabetodo** » 29 Mar 2013, 00:03

I always use antiseize on spark plugs. I used to use it on lugs too but a rear wheel did fall off once on a mountain road, it went down the canyon and it's still there. Could have been worse if it had been a front wheel, & I might still be there too.