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Is heating it my last civil method to remove what...

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xHeart
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Is heating it my last civil method to remove what...

Post by xHeart »

..., I believe, a Red Loctite application? A clue is that it smokes and odors after heating for several minutes.

The inner and outer tie-rods rotates together no matter where I counter-hold.
It is starting to strip.
Heating with torch for a several minutes have loosen the lock nut, but now I am loosing civility.
Several days into this Struggle, or as Lee says "Fight".
Would heating say for 15 minutes lead to other unknown troubles?
inner and outer tie-rod
inner and outer tie-rod
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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Sometimes we have to admit defeat and take it to a shop. :?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
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cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

Heating won't do any harm as you are heating the OUTER tierod, which will be trashed anyway.

Make sure you have good bite on the flat areas on the INNER tierod for good counter-hold.
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volvobaggen
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Post by volvobaggen »

Heating it with a propane burner should be enough, you should not give up before you do that.

cn90  
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Post by cn90 »

1+,

xHeart, remember you heated the lock nut and it came out.
This time you need to heat the Outer tierod part next to the lock nut.

"Winners don't quit, quitters don't win"...LOL.
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Post by jblackburn »

If all else fails...

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A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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Post by cn90 »

xHeart,

Propane Torch does the job in 99% of the cases.
But MAPP gas is hotter than propane.
MAPP gas is also available at hardware store. In fact, many plumbers prefer MAPP gas because it is quicker to heat and it is hotter.
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vjaneczko
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Post by vjaneczko »

I picked up a nut splitter at AutoZone for ten bucks when I was faced with the same problem. Which part are you replacing; inner or outer? I wound up having to do both - only after doing the outer and having Firestoner tell me I needed the inner before an alignment could be done. I would suggest that if you're doing one, you should also do the other.
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Post by erikv11 »

Nut splitters are amazingly simple and effective (and cheap!), I was thinking this would be a good use for one. There is plenty of room in there, too.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

vjaneczko wrote:I picked up a nut splitter at AutoZone for ten bucks when I was faced with the same problem. Which part are you replacing; inner or outer? I wound up having to do both - only after doing the outer and having Firestoner tell me I needed the inner before an alignment could be done. I would suggest that if you're doing one, you should also do the other.
After much thought and reading, it is both sides replacement of inner and outer from VOLVO/TRW.
Fearless, but anticipating difficulties with inner removal also.
Heating is science. I was reading that the temperature must each 600F and above for it to work.
Perhaps a good time for Turkey thermometer to learn life beyond meat.

Thank you ALL for the encouragement. I will resume this afternoon.
Last edited by xHeart on 20 Nov 2012, 15:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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