P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

[rspi]

When I ordered my last kit the sales person told me to order the wrong one. I realized that when I when to click the button and changed it at the last minute. I just think his head wasn't in it.

Yesterday I was under the hood of our S70 GLT. I noticed that the elbow that goes from the small tube (that plugs into the front side of the intake manifold) to the small port on the PTC valve had a tear in it. I realized that I just replaced the same elbow on my '95 850 T-5R a few days prior. Turns out, the tube is to long and should be trimmed so the hose elbow is not stressed once installed. The elbow was hard and had 2 holes in it, one on the stressed elbow and one on the connection on the PTC.

So, I suggest that you trim the plastic tube about 1/4" so it's not going to far to the connection that it has to make or it will cause the elbow to fail pretty quick. The elbow on the S70 was 3 years old and the one on the 850 was about 18 months old.

[shiloh51933]

A few words on PCV Job.

Things have changed over the last few years, many Volvo dealers now sell parts at very competitive prices (sometimes even cheaper than aftermarket vendors! Stick to Volvo OEM parts because aftermarket parts are junk, they will crack in 2 years.

As long as you do your diligent research, you should have the correct PNs for all the odds and ends.
Examples of dealers:

- Waltrip Volvo in Nashville TN, give them your VIN number:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=216970

- Superior Volvo in Kansas City:
http://thevpstore.com/


PS: Go to FCP to check for proper PNs for your car, there are slight variations between models:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-p ... bo-850t200

I ordered the pcv stuff from fcp groton but it was a while ago since I received items and the throttle body plate I bought from Darrel Waltrip. Just gonna order the proper oil seperator box and swap it in...I usually look parts over but been busy with work/school/kids.

[rspi]

Call FCP, they will likely make it right.

[rmmagow]

This excellent tutorial is written for a 98 S70 T5. Would this job on a V70 LPT be exactly the same? LPT vs T5, T5 is HPT with smaller bore engine, LPT is the 2.4 L engine? PCV system the same in both?
Thanks

[jblackburn]

This excellent tutorial is written for a 98 S70 T5. Would this job on a V70 LPT be exactly the same? LPT vs T5, T5 is HPT with smaller bore engine, LPT is the 2.4 L engine? PCV system the same in both?
Thanks

Same engine with small differences internally - nothing that would concern this job.

[cn90]

I am doing the PCV on my 1998 S70 GLT with 145K soon. I am wonder if I should replace the starter motor preventively, since once the Intake Manifold is out, replacing the starter motor is a piece of cake.
Once the Intake Manifold goes back, if I ever need to replace the starter motor, it is way more labor.

Starter motor is stock and works fine now, but at 145K, wondering...
What do you guys think?

[jblackburn]

I am doing the PCV on my 1998 S70 GLT with 145K soon. I am wonder if I should replace the starter motor preventively, since once the Intake Manifold is out, replacing the starter motor is a piece of cake.
Once the Intake Manifold goes back, if I ever need to replace the starter motor, it is way more labor.

Starter motor is stock and works fine now, but at 145K, wondering...
What do you guys think?

They really don't go bad *that* often. Out of many high mileage cars my family's owned, the only one I've ever had to replace a starter on was a Honda with over 200K (I killed that one, I think, by cranking the stupid thing too long when it wouldn't start in the cold).

The BMW is still on the original 38-year-old starter it shipped from the factory with.

Leave it. It can be changed easily just by removing the fan from the front of the car.

[headhunter]

Hi fellas. I need a little help and hope the people who've contributed to the thread can give it. I have done the complete PCV replacement job on a '98 V70 XC (turbo), 150k miles, with the kit from IPD. I started pulling the intake stuff apart to replace the coolant line to the turbo. Couldn't reach the hose clamps from below the car. Then the PTC hoses just fell apart when I pulled them off the PTC, which led me to pulling the intake and going ahead with the PCV system replacement while I was at it.

Here is where I am stuck. Everything is back together, new intake gasket and everything else related to the PCV system. I cleaned all the ports in the engine out and the PTC valve as this excellent tutorial suggests. I replaced the lower radiator hose and a couple other hoses that were in bad shape while I was in there. I am pretty confident I have all the hoses in the right places thanks to this thread and other excellent tutorials on MVS. Now when I go to start the car it runs really rough. Will not hold idle without me keeping the RPMs above 1500. The car will run for a minute but then just die. If I put it in gear it dies. I read here it sounded like a vacuum problem so I replaced a couple suspect hoses near the intake, one from the air cleaner hose (from air cleaner to to I think SAS valve, and one from the air cleaner hose to a junction of three vacuum hoses into a little doohickey under the air cleaner hose. Also the short hose that is from fuel rail to the return fuel line. I also have reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. None of this has fixed the rough running problem. I'm not sure how to read the codes, maybe that is the next step.

Also in a separate but related question. The air intake hose to turbo has two vacuum connections on it. One hose is white and one is black. I can't remember which goes to which nipple but have tried them both ways. Would be helpful if someone could tell me. They are not on the vacuum diagram I looked at here on the site.

I am open to ideas. I am at that super frustrated point where I have run out of them. Thanks in advance.

[rspi]

There should be a vac diagram under the hood.

Also, make sure the hoses to the IAC are connected good and don't have a tear.

[headhunter]

Hmm, I will take a look at the IAC tomorrow. Also will try unplugging the MAF to see if that could be the culprit. I tried spraying carb cleaner around the vac connections with no luck. Idle was not affected. The car ran rough upon starting before this job, but ran fine when warm. Now it's undrivable.