DIY: Upper Engine Mount (Lemforder)

Post by **cn90** » 02 Dec 2012, 03:36

This is an old topic but deserves some update. You need to read this nice DIY by Geevs.

Upper Engine Mount Bushing Tutorial Overview by "Geevs":
Replace upper engine mount w oem bushing

In the DIY by Geevs above, I cannot add a full write-up, so here you go, another DIY with some practical tips/tricks.

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In terms of engine vibration, let's say we use an arbitrary scale of 10 with 10 being severe vibration.

In my other car that was totaled (1998 V70), I used Poly Upper Mount, the vibration (especially at stop light with A.T.) was 3/10.

So, for my "new" 1998 S70 GLT, I installed OEM Lemforder Upper Mount ($12 from rmeuropean.com).
The engine vibration is now 1/10, somewhat better than Poly.

PARTS/TOOLS:
- Lemforder Upper Mount: Volvo PN 9434263.
You will note that this is an improved version compared with stock.
The hollow parts (in the stock) are now filled with a rubber wall in the new Lemforder bushing.
- 13-mm, 15-mm wrench
- The bore size of the bracket is 60mm. So:
- 6-inch long all thread bolt and nut (bolt is 3/8" type from Home Depot).
- Electrical coupling with I.D. = 62mm or so.
- Some old bearing races laying around in my garage.

Alright, let' stop here.
If you don't have appropriate balljoint tool set or old bearing races etc., don't even try, you will be frustrated!
I guess you can rent for free the balljoint tool kit from Advance Autoparts and hope it does the job.

The bottom line here is: since the bore is 60mm, you need a larger sleeve (I used Electrical coupling with I.D. = 62mm or so, Home Depot has it for $3) to accept the old bushing. But you need something (I used old bearing race) with O.D. = 58mm to press the old bushing out.

A good source for old bearings is local indy shops, ask them for old bearing races.

1. Press toward passenger side (my preference).

2. Place the new Bushing in the freezer a few hours beforehand.
It makes the job easier.

3. Oil the bore before insertion. This will make it smooth.

4. Use white-out paint to mark the bushing because during the insertion, it is easy to lose orientation of the bushing.
Note arrow points to the top, large bump to the front, small bump to the rear.

That is all, as long as you have the appropriate sleeves, you can do this, otherwise, don't even try.

Have Fun!

: VolvoUpperMount1.JPG (100.41 KiB) Viewed 4478 times

: VolvoUpperMount2.JPG (94.07 KiB) Viewed 4478 times

Post by **alschnertz** » 02 Dec 2012, 06:58

cn90, we seem to be going through the same maintenance replacements lately.

I just picked up a poly upper mount for the '95, though haven't installed it yet. Maybe I'll return it, you're giving me pause. I'd prefer to use something closer to the factory mount which is what yours looks like.
I do have access to a hydraulic press, so I'd have to remove the mount from the engine, but it may be worth it.

Have you done the other mounts too, or is this the only one? I suspect this mount takes more abuse than the others, but with 210,000 on the car, really all should be replaced.

What kind of reputation does Lemforder have?
Price doesn't seem to be an issue. The poly mount from eEuroparts was $18.

Post by **xHeart** » 02 Dec 2012, 08:24

This was the hardest job this past Spring using Volvo part.
I am posting a photo below, it shows the mount holding the busing slipped out of mount bracket a 1/4 inch during pressing it from passenger to driver side, an opposite direction to what cn90 recommends.

: The mount slipped out of bracket; MVS_4461.jpg (313.69 KiB) Viewed 4458 times

I was then able to push/pull it back, restored close to its original setting. But NOT SURE if it is firmly in place, does it need welded to the bracket for it to last?

: somewhat restored to center; MVS_4463.jpg (440.68 KiB) Viewed 4458 times

Post by **cn90** » 02 Dec 2012, 09:27

Hello alschnertz,

I am the 5th owner of this car, as far as I know, the other mount (pass side near timing belt) was replaced recently.

This upper engine mount (Lemforder) lasts about 50K or so.
I don't mind doing it every 50K.

Don't worry about the Poly bushing, it lasts the life of the car.
However, it vibrates a bit more than Stock mount (I didn't mind the extra vibration caused by the Poly when I had it on but this is subjective).

My way was the "lazy" way, I did it with the bracket in place, minimal amount of work.
If you have the hydraulic press then it is great.

However, not matter what you do, you need appropriate sleeves to press the bushing in and out.
The bigger sleeve (Electrical Coupling at Home Depot) is $3.
The smaller sleeve came from my BMW rear bearing races.

I always keep old bearing races as press sleeves.

Post by **erikv11** » 02 Dec 2012, 10:20

alschnertz wrote:cn90, we seem to be going through the same maintenance replacements lately.

I just picked up a poly upper mount for the '95, though haven't installed it yet. Maybe I'll return it, you're giving me pause. I'd prefer to use something closer to the factory mount which is what yours looks like.
I do have access to a hydraulic press, so I'd have to remove the mount from the engine, but it may be worth it.

Have you done the other mounts too, or is this the only one? I suspect this mount takes more abuse than the others, but with 210,000 on the car, really all should be replaced.

What kind of reputation does Lemforder have?
Price doesn't seem to be an issue. The poly mount from eEuroparts was $18.

I would rate the vibration with poly mount as 4 or 5 out of 10, in my car there was a very obvious difference between the poly and the OEM style. That's with all mounts in good shape.

Lemforder makes quality parts, they have a solid reputation. They made the control arms that shipped from the factory on these cars.

This mount takes a lot of abuse but deciding whether or not to replace it is very simple. If the rubber is cracked or hard and stiff then replace it, otherwise it is fine.

The "improved design" aspect that cn90 mentions sounds much more like a manufacturing shortcut than a technical improvement. You actually want the rubber to have just a little flex, that is the whole point of the torque mount bushing and why there were those slots in the factory mount. So a more solid center will reduce the flex and transmit more vibration, that is the problem with the poly mount. But like everywhere else, the bug picture of manufacturing economics is very different today versus 15 years ago. Probably just a little cheaper to make the OEM style mount differently, so they do. Hopefully it will last well. Whatever you do, don't buy the $6 mount from IPD, made by Uro!!

Post by **alschnertz** » 06 Dec 2012, 18:06

Quick follow up.
I changed the upper mount to a poly version sold by eEuroparts.
Installation was simple and took maybe 15 minutes.

Shifts feel a little smoother. Especially going from D to R and vice versa.
I don't notice much vibration, but I don't drive the car daily, so it's tough for me to say whether it's better or worse.

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 22 May 2013, 06:02

I will be doing this upper mount replacement any day now on volvo 850 GLT, and am making the tool to push the old bushing out and push the new one in, but I cant find this electrical coupling on Home Depot website cn90. Can you post a link to it?

Post by **cn90** » 22 May 2013, 08:03

Home Depot does not everything they have online, go to their store with the new bushing and see what fits.

Another option, bring the Lemforder bushing to Advance Auto Parts and ask them for "Ball Joint or wheel bearing adapter kit", which should contain the adapter you need to do the job. This tool can be rented for free.

Post by **xHeart** » 22 May 2013, 14:51

cn90 wrote: Another option, bring the Lemforder bushing to Advance Auto Parts and ask them for "Ball Joint or wheel bearing adapter kit", which should contain the adapter you need to do the job. This tool can be rented for free.

I would take AAP rental tool anytime. AutoZone offers it also.
Forget home depot, or building your own tool.

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 23 May 2013, 03:07

We don't have Advanced Auto Parts within 100 miles where I live. We have AutoZone. I go there all the time. Currently have around 15 different tools rented for other projects around the car:) less than half of them were needed.

Do you know by any chance which of their loaner bushing rental tools has the correct size receiver? Im afraid that none of them will have the correct diameters. They have 4-5 possible boxes. They do not list the diameters. The OEM manufacturer doesn't list the diameters on its website either. If I knew which tool has the right receiver I would rent it from AutoZone.