S70 Door Lock Cylinder

Post by **asg1986** » 03 Dec 2012, 14:23

Does anyone know how to remove the door lock cylinder from a 2000 S70? I've found instructions that say to remove the cover around the lock cylinder, then simply press the spindle rod from behind. It is never as easy as they say

I gave it a few good "pushes" and the cylinder didn't budge. Anyone have any experience with this. I've attached the document I referenced.

briderx · Post by **briderx** » 03 Dec 2012, 14:54

I have a 98 V70 and those diagrams look similar to my car's. (i know different models). Did you make sure all the screws were removed? I see 4 in the picture. I ended up taking the door panel off, undoing those screws, and moving the cylinder while gently working the handle. It ended up separating, and was held in by a lip that the cylinder slipped in to. Why are you trying to get it off?

*edit* I ask because I just fixed the lock actuator on mine last week.

Post by **asg1986** » 03 Dec 2012, 15:52

Good story: It's my sister car (she lives 6 hours away). We spent thanksgiving at her place and I was hoping to fix her driver's door that was stuck shut. I tore the door panel off b/c I had no choice. Everything was connected properly, but still didn't open. I removed the window regulator and exterior handle (not fun with door closed). I ended up driving the car back home because I couldn't fix it! I played with the lock mechanism for a few days, then started hacking away at it. A hammer and chisel did the trick

Now the door opens and a used, well lubricated lock mechanism replaced the old. I am having trouble getting the handle back into the door with the spindle attached. It's hard to line the spindle up with the white plastic screw in the locking mechanism.

Post by **rspi** » 03 Dec 2012, 16:01

We have a door stuck closed, rear passenger, but I have not torn into it yet. If you can post a pic or some details about how you got it un-stuck I would appreciate it.

Post by **asg1986** » 05 Dec 2012, 07:49

Sorry, but I haven't had the pleasure of tearing into one of the rear door panels yet

You're going to have to pull the panel off. The rear is probably easier than the front because you don't have the dash covering part of the panel, and the lower seat cushion can be removed. You can also remove the seat bolsters on either side of the seat back. These simply pop out at the top, and then lift up - little "u" shaped piece of metal fits into a black clip (prone to braking, but not that important). Once hte panel is off, try playing around with the bowden cable that connects to the locking mechanism. Make sure its attached, has tension, ect. Also check to make sure that the door is unlocked while you're in there. Wish I could be more helpful.

Back to my car: I got the handle in, but didn't get the cylinder out. I was able to manuever it in, but I still think it would have been easier with the cylinder removed. Now on to the 940 ignition cylinder that won't turn at all! Yippee

Post by **rspi** » 05 Dec 2012, 08:31

I've had a few seats out and that side cushion. I'll tear into it as soon as I see the car again. This one has a jammed lock latch, won't go up or down. I'll see soon enough I guess.

Post by **cn90** » 12 Jul 2015, 10:40

OLD Topic but important to make a note.

Just replaced my LEFT (driver side) Actuator.
Once done, everything works except that I can't lock the door manually!

As it turns out...on the LEFT side, there is a plastic thingy #2 in the photo that slides into the actuator, this is when you manually turn the key too open the door, it lifts the rod up.

Then I read the pdf attached about by the O.P., the solution for me was simple: no need to remove the door panel again.
All I had to do was to remove the two (2) T30 bolts that hold the door lock tumbler, slid it outward 2 inches or so.
Then angle it in such a way that the plastic thingy slides into the actuator.

: Actuator.JPG (74.5 KiB) Viewed 3937 times

slovi1 · Post by **slovi1** » 14 Sep 2015, 13:01

Thanks cn90...this is exactly the issue I was stuck with and I was able to fix it thanks to your post. I do have another mystery that I am dealing with that I am hoping someone might be familiar with. I have fixed two sets of my door locks by fixing actual actuator motor (I followed this video: The fixed worked as both locks lock and unlock without any issues using key fob, physical key, or the electronic lock buttons on the door panel. However, on the driver side door only, if I attempt to lock the door using the plastic push down button, doors will lock but the interior lights will stay on (they will go off after I hit lock button on key fob). Based on my research I thought that maybe the microswitch on the lock was broken. But when I play with one of my spare lock actuators, it doesn't seem like pushing down that pin causes any part of the lock to hit microswitch (at least the one I can see...not sure how many hidden microswitches there might be). Does anyone have any suggestions? This may not seem like a big deal (just don't use the pin lock) but I can already see my wife locking the door manually and calling me hours later that the battery is dead.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Sep 2015, 19:21

The lights should time out whether the car is locked or not and it is a function of the switches sensing that the door is closed. There is a plastic cam that rotates to engage the microswitches when the door closes. I had one where it just didn't quite depress the microswitch enough and I glued in a shim to fix it.

...Lee