I have a feeling my ETM is dying on my '99 XC. I know from service records it was replaced during the Volvo 'extended warranty' recall deal, but recently I've had the ETS light come on, as well has hard start/dying while driving issues (search my username for other posts on other topics).
I plan on DIY replacing my ETM, and while searching the web, I came across another version of a rebuilt module, by ModuleMasters. I've had them rebuild a few ABS modules for me, and they offer this:
www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-ETM-Throttle-Body-Repair-Rebuild-SERVICE-/271111215814?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1f7cdac6&vxp=mtr
Has anyone used the MM unit versus the Xemodex? Impressions? The MM offers a 5 year warranty, the Xemodex is lifetime, but the MM rebuild is a LOT cheaper, and looks like a similar product.
I need to pull the trigger on this soon, any opinions or input would be great.
TIA.
ETM/ETS: ModuleMaster vs. XeMODeX
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Matty Moo
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It's hard to tell by looking at the pictures, but it sounds as if they're using the exact same Sacer sensor.
You can't beat that price either, that's only slightly more than what others charge using the same original parts. If it were me, I'd jump on it.
You can't beat that price either, that's only slightly more than what others charge using the same original parts. If it were me, I'd jump on it.

http://www.midwest-abs.com
Simplycleanpowerwash.com
1996 850 Platinum Wagon. ARD Green Tune, OBX.-Gone
1998 s70 ARD tune, EST exhaust, SE/R interior.
1999 s70 Plain Jane.
2000 s70 GLT
2014 Ram
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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bronson75
- Posts: 45
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- Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
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That was my thought. The only problem is that I need to send in the original module, while Xemodex has an exchange program, which will take the car off the road for a while. But for the price, and the product, I think it's a no-brainer.
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Matty Moo
- Posts: 1810
- Joined: 12 October 2008
- Year and Model: 850, 1996
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Absolutely, their price is more than fair. Myself, I'd charge more...only because ETM's are so support heavy, especially when dealing with the general public vs shops. I'm surprised they or somebody else in the US haven't started doing this sooner being that Sacer has no problem selling the sensors to anybody that wants them.
I'm having a diagnostic rig made to diagnose/test ABS units on, I had the chance to have full ETM capability built in and passed on the idea. I've gone back and forth on the idea of rebuilding them for the past year, but I don't have time for the amount of support that they require. On a scale where you would have volume, I'd imagine that 80% of the time involved with them would be strictly support.
I'm having a diagnostic rig made to diagnose/test ABS units on, I had the chance to have full ETM capability built in and passed on the idea. I've gone back and forth on the idea of rebuilding them for the past year, but I don't have time for the amount of support that they require. On a scale where you would have volume, I'd imagine that 80% of the time involved with them would be strictly support.

http://www.midwest-abs.com
Simplycleanpowerwash.com
1996 850 Platinum Wagon. ARD Green Tune, OBX.-Gone
1998 s70 ARD tune, EST exhaust, SE/R interior.
1999 s70 Plain Jane.
2000 s70 GLT
2014 Ram
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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bronson75
- Posts: 45
- Joined: 24 July 2009
- Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
- Location: Beloit, WI
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I got an ABS module from you a year or so ago, it worked out perfectly. If you chose to get into ETMs, I suspect you'd do well.
I've Googled the MM unit, the only place I've seen any information is on the eBay link. But like you mentioned, if the sensors are the same as the Xemodex unit, I can't see why I'd go that route, the difference in price is too big to ignore.
I've Googled the MM unit, the only place I've seen any information is on the eBay link. But like you mentioned, if the sensors are the same as the Xemodex unit, I can't see why I'd go that route, the difference in price is too big to ignore.
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precopster
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The whole process takes 2 hours including resealing the case. For that price they are working very cheap. I rebuild them for the Aussie public but am tired of the poor diagnosis the public is willing to provide. Very often the ETM is fine though they are convinced it's the ETM once again. Do yourself a favour and CLEAN the ETM then have the car scanned for codes.
The yellow stickered ETMs are far more reliable than the earlier ones and second time around the MAF and brake pedal position sensor are usually suspect as well.
How many miles have been covered on the warranty unit?
The yellow stickered ETMs are far more reliable than the earlier ones and second time around the MAF and brake pedal position sensor are usually suspect as well.
How many miles have been covered on the warranty unit?
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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Matty Moo
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I couldn't have said it any better myself. That's the exact reason that I don't want anything to do with them.precopster wrote: I rebuild them for the Aussie public but am tired of the poor diagnosis the public is willing to provide. Very often the ETM is fine though they are convinced it's the ETM once again.

http://www.midwest-abs.com
Simplycleanpowerwash.com
1996 850 Platinum Wagon. ARD Green Tune, OBX.-Gone
1998 s70 ARD tune, EST exhaust, SE/R interior.
1999 s70 Plain Jane.
2000 s70 GLT
2014 Ram
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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bronson75
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- Joined: 24 July 2009
- Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
- Location: Beloit, WI
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The car is a '99 V70XC. The ETM was replaced (upgraded) with a yellow labeled unit in 2006, at 77,000 miles. The car currently has 171,000.precopster wrote: The yellow stickered ETMs are far more reliable than the earlier ones and second time around the MAF and brake pedal position sensor are usually suspect as well.
How many miles have been covered on the warranty unit?
My symptoms are as such: the car will start well, and after a time (usually once warmed up), it'll stutter and die while driving, and then be very hard to restart. Once started, it occasionally stumbles and dies again, or it will run fine with no further problems. This has happened 2 or 3 times since Thanksgiving.
I ran a code reader on it, and came up with the following:
P0141 (known bad rear O2 sensor)
P0236/P0237 (boost sensor issues)
P0422 (catalyst efficiency, or MIL/CEL issue [my CEL is actually burned out, so I'm going with that])
P0650 (Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction, like I said, it's burned out).
I haven't cleaned the ETM yet, but I'll pull it and give it a good cleaning. I've done a lot of research on the 236/237 codes, but I haven't found anything clear as to which part could be the culprit, it's somewhat confusing. It looks as though either the MAF or the boost sensor could be bad.
I'd appreciate any input.
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precopster
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If you clean it have the throttle flap at 3 and 9 o clock, clean the lower hemisphere with good quality brake cleaner ONLY then turn upside down and clean the other half. Avoid the throttle shaft area where it meets the body as the seals can allow liquids through them. The whole throttle body's design allows fluids to enter. If the body is dirty leave it alone.
Poor air flow through the ETM can give you MAF like codes because airflow speed is compromised. After cleaning check the airflow speed at idle against specs, then decide whether the MAF is on your shopping list.
Poor air flow through the ETM can give you MAF like codes because airflow speed is compromised. After cleaning check the airflow speed at idle against specs, then decide whether the MAF is on your shopping list.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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