I finally got around to servicing the clogged PCV system on my wife's 2005 S80, 2.5T, 155,000 miles. It appears the main culprit for the neutral or slightly positive crankcase pressure is the short length of hard plastic tubing (shown in red in the image below) that runs from a banjo fitting on the bottom of the intake manifold to a point where it T's into the larger diameter hose (yellow) just above where the large hose exits the top of the breather box. It was plugged up solid to the point that I couldn't even clean it out with a piece of wire. Because it is sort of "S" shaped, I tried to straighten it slightly in order to run the wire through it. Well, let's just say it wasn't very flexible. ("Snap!") The problem is that Volvo only sells the entire assembly of hoses bundled together in a common conduit. Price = $160 - $200 depending where you buy it. But then you also have to get down behind the engine to disconnect the other ends of the hoses. BTW, the smaller diameter yellow tube is a water line.
My question is, does anyone see anything wrong with simply the replacing the clogged/broken length of hose with some regular vacuum hose? The bajo fitting has a barbed nipple as does the other end where it T's into the larger hose. I found a piece of vacuum hose that fits those barbed nipples nice and snug. I can blow air through the large diameter hose, so I'm convinced that it's path down to where it ties into the turbo intake hose is obstruction-free.
So what's the consensus - replace the entire mess, or just the short length of small diameter tube?
PCV Service
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
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You can buy an XC90 banjo piece and adapt it to the system Saves you big bucks
It has a long black piece coming out the center, that is modified to adapt to your system and will also replace your bad "red" piece.
If you need the part number let me know
It's a bit tricky but if you have talent and can see the obvious this works
(We do this all the time, saves me from buying the large piece)
It has a long black piece coming out the center, that is modified to adapt to your system and will also replace your bad "red" piece.
If you need the part number let me know
It's a bit tricky but if you have talent and can see the obvious this works
(We do this all the time, saves me from buying the large piece)
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
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- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
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Yes, I called the dealer this AM to see if they had the tube assembly in stock and get the price. The parts guy said "Is it just that the little tube from the banjo bolt is broken? If so, I have a kit that replaces just that part - $41. I'm going to go check it out. But I'm still wondering why, since I've cleaned the hard plastic hose off of the nipples at both ends, can't I just replace it with a piece of PCV quality vacuum hose. After all, the banjo fitting is cast together with the water tube that runs along with it, so it would make sense to retain the original fitting.
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DGM
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If the inside diameter is the same and the hose oil resistant I don't see why it couldn't be used.
Based on JRL description the following part could be adapted. It is from a XC90/6 cyl Turbo. Look at item (1a) part number 30731007.
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showA ... =crankcase
Both approaches can save $ if the hose is severely blocked.

Based on JRL description the following part could be adapted. It is from a XC90/6 cyl Turbo. Look at item (1a) part number 30731007.
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showA ... =crankcase
Both approaches can save $ if the hose is severely blocked.
V70 2005 2.4i 195,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
S70 1998 T5 355,000km, sold
960 1994 80,000km, sold
760 1990 Turbo 265,000km, sold
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JRL
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1A is correct and you want to replace that assy..
That is the part that gets all clogged up inside and is really not cleanable
Little hole inside the banjo gets clogged and you can't get at it
That is the part that gets all clogged up inside and is really not cleanable
Little hole inside the banjo gets clogged and you can't get at it
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
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Well, I got er dun - used the little repair kit depicted on the XC90 parts list. I've got got good vacuum in the crank case now. It's a big time-consuming job to get into that thing. And that one manifold bold that's partially hidden by the thermostadt housing is a BEAR! Went and bought a set of metric crows feet but it still didn't make it all that easy. Someone needs to come up with a conversion kit that moves some of that stuff out to where it's more accessable, like they have for the red blocks. The breather box itself was still quite clear except for the very bottom port between the box and the engine block. That was about 80% blocked. Finished up with a fresh oil and filter change with full syn oil.
DGM / JRL: Thanks for the info.
DGM / JRL: Thanks for the info.
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mikealder
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To get the lower manifold bolt undone (the one under the thermostat housing) I simply used a 10MM socket fitted to a 3/8 drive 6" long extension with wobble head, this gets the bolt loose which is all that is required on the three lower bolts as they don't have to be removed to release the manifold - Mike
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chrism
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In my case the clearance between the bolt head and the thermo housing was so tight there was no way I could get a socket on it. In fact I couldn't even get one of those ratcheting closed end wrenches on it. An open end wrench coming at it from over the top of the breather box or the crows foot on a long extension was my choice. My manifold is 3/4" thick at the bolt holes - the reason I know is because I measured it so that I could have the lower bolts screwed in, as you suggest, to where they wouldn't need much tightening. I'm wondering if some of the cars have thinner manifold castings.
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andybbrown
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So, you didn't do the hose fix as you were intending? I would like to have known how that would have turned out.
Would you recommend that it is not worth trying to remove the hose to clean it or, is it okay to do it if you are careful?
I was thinking of checking my pcv system out and saw your post.
Would you recommend that it is not worth trying to remove the hose to clean it or, is it okay to do it if you are careful?
I was thinking of checking my pcv system out and saw your post.
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chrism
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Actually i DID purchase and install the repair hose kit. It includes the short section of hard vacuum line with the banjo fitting that is welded to the "U" shaped coolant fitting. Even if you were able to clean out the hose and banjo fitting, it would be risky to continue using the old brittle hose.
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