Pvc or Turbo ?

twoshea982 · Post by **twoshea982** » 14 Feb 2013, 02:57

Hello,

This is my first time on a forum. I'm a proud owner of a 2003 v70 awd 2.5L. Love the car, but I have some questions about the PVC system, and Turbo. Here is what I have. Cold starts are fine no visible oil burning. When driving cold or hot (engine temp) also notice no visible "blue" or excessive "white smoke". BUT if the car idles for more than roughly 5-10 mins, excessive smoke "blue" from the tail pipe, if i rev the engine at this point it just billows out in stinky bluish smoke. If i put it in drive and put on less than 1/4 mile it goes away, I can idle for about another 5-10 mins.

I just purchased this vehicle with 121K and I am at 133k now. I am going to try the dipstick test and filler cap test for the PVC system due to seepage around oil cap. I personally believe the turbo oil seals are bad. The one other oil leak "seepage"i do see is around the turbo charge tube to intercooler (over the rocker cover). I have not done anything to repair this problem yet. also no trouble codes or faults before and during the problem. and the vehicle runs fine when this is going on.

Im not sure of oil consumtion rate right now, due to just owning this vehicle but as silly as it sounds so far its less than 1/2 qt per 3000 miles . forgot to check it before last oil change!

synthetic oil 5w-30
no external coolant leaks, and or loss of coolant.

what are your thoughts? Thank you for any information that you can provide

Post by **pikngrn** » 14 Feb 2013, 03:29

Hello & welcome!
Sorry, I don't have the solution, as I am in the same boat with an older 850 GLT but I have tried everything I know of besides the PCV Cleaning/replacing, as I will have to hand that over to a professional. I did have interesting success with the seafoam treatment , but went from less than minimal smoke & excessive blow which would fill a glove instantly to excessive smoke and less than minimal blow by. I have not really used much synthetic oil at all considering how much smoke I have seen in the past before I learned not to idle at all. I also recommend leaving cardboard beneath the engine at night to watch for leaks. Mine look like they are residual from a bigger source that is spattering, because I am positive that I don't have that many tiny leaks.
The Seafoam was a great engine booster too. I will use it before every oil change from now on.
Best of luck to you!

Post by **jblackburn** » 14 Feb 2013, 06:21

Sounds like bad valve stem seals.

Post by **pikngrn** » 15 Feb 2013, 10:03

What happens if left unrepaired? What would we see happen next?

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 18 Feb 2013, 12:53

you may end up with burned valves or valve seats.

twoshea982 · Post by **twoshea982** » 22 Feb 2013, 22:33

if its valve stem seals?, tell tale sign engine cold start ups blue smoke, I don't get that. If they were really bad they would leak all the time. I just popped the hood yesterday, oil around filler port, oil around all air tubes in relationship to the turbo. Does one of the PVC lines go to the output (intake air)side of the turbo? Because I can see a smaller type of rubber tube with traces of oil also.

Can some one explain the whole PVC/Flash arrestor therory that Volvo has come up with. Most other PVC designs are not this ...oh ...wierd??

Sbcv70 · Post by **Sbcv70** » 24 Feb 2013, 08:24

I am dealing with big oil leaks from my 2001 V70 T5 with 171K miles.I have ruled out the turbo drain pipe.

I assumed that the PCV system was the culprit so I decided to replace the trap and clean out the rest of the system. The trap was full of sludge but all of the passages into the block were clean. The banjo fitting that attaches to the underside of the intake manifold was clogged with very hard carbon deposits. I cleaned the fitting with a pick like a dental tool and then blew out the rest of the lines with compressed air.

After I finished the job, the leaks remain, as bad as ever.

The source of the leaks on my v70 appear to be from the rear of the engine, on the side closest to the firewall. There is a lot of oil plumbing back there for the turbo and oil cooler supply. I will be tearing into it today, checking the plumbing and checking the rear camshaft seals.

How does this relate to this thread? The PCV system does clog and can cause external leaks. I am not sure that increased crankcase pressure would cause a healthy engine to burn oil other than what would end up in the intake air stream from the PCV dumping raw oil/vapor into the charge air pipe from the turbo.

If you are burning oil only after idling, the PCV system may be dumping oil into the intake at a rate higher than can be burned at idle, causing the smoke.

Good luck, post back what you learn.

Sbcv70 · Post by **Sbcv70** » 24 Feb 2013, 19:16

The exhaust camshaft seal was definitely leaking:

[missing image]

After I removed the tone wheel from the cam, you could really see the oil dripping down from the cam. I replaced the seal, reassembled the top side and wiped down everything I could get to underneath. After a short 3 mile drive, there is still oil dripping from the engine / transmission area. It was still a rather heavy leak so I am quite certain that it is still leaking.

The transmission shifts okay about 75% of the time and acts up when it gets hot. I have found a transmission shop locally that will rebuild the valve body for $1200 including removing the lower subframe to lower the engine/trans enough to get to the valve body. I need to see how much they would charge to pull the transmission and replace the rear main seal while they are in there.

Scott
In NC

twoshea982 · Post by **twoshea982** » 26 Nov 2013, 23:21

Well, it was the turbo. last week the turbo let out its last whine and started to gargle, lol. Its funny how things happen in threes. First the dash went totally dead, it just used to be the clock in hyper mode. Next the turbo went, and while changing the turbo under the car the lh frt tire had a gash about 5" long. lets see...$135 dollars to get dash repaired, sent out came back worked for a week...but oh they garentee their work for life, but I have to pay to ship it back to them. When the dash is physically out you lose function of windows, mirrors, auto climate, high beams, and turn signals, really they don't work and im not talking about just the dash indications lol.....that sucks. Doing a turbo in 15 F degrees weather sucks!!! Tires werenr't to bad had to go with cheaper tires. oh yeah did i mention before all this happened both of my lowbeam headlight bulbs burnt out at the same time !! What the heck ???? they were a month old and this is the second set. 1 year I have owned this car and im about $2000 dollars into to keeping it running. NOT HAPPY!!!! I still owe on it!!! I thought Volvos lasted forever, they do while they drain your wallet!!! Anyone interested in a 2003 volvo v70 awd 2.5l turbo 162000 miles on it lol!!!! it maybe fine from here on out who knows but i don't like the parts availiblity,special (EXPENSIVE) fluid requirements, special can-bus electrical system, for goodness sake the dealer didn't have any parts for this vehicle (turbo exhaust gaskets), expensive oil changes (oil filter cost extra, 6 quarts of oil). I guess a blue collar like me can see my hard earned cash going to somewhere else.....

Post by **oragex** » 27 Nov 2013, 15:27

It's not fun when it starts to break... with 160k miles on it so it will keep going this way. The dash issue, you better get a used one, make sure the 4 ID digits are the same. I only buy used parts for mine, know a guy who's parting Volvos.

You say you're blue collar? You should come to Montreal, they make more than an engineer here