Drilling/fast clicking sound when trying to start.

Tony1979 · Post by **Tony1979** » 22 Feb 2013, 11:09

Evening all.

Of all the times I didn't want my S60 to give me trouble was when I had my Mrs and new born baby son in the car, in the hospital car park ready to go home for the first time as a family, but it did!

I had been making a lot of short trips over the past week and then when we all got into the car, all be it it's always normally only me, I turned the key and got a loud drilling/clicking sound, no engine turnover nothing. I glanced down to see low battery voltage on the display and ABS service required.

The next day I returned to my abandoned car, got in and the same thing happened. I started the car easily with jump leads and made a short 1 mile trip home where the car has stayed for 5 days unmoved or started. Today I went to start it and what do you know, a no start! The low battery message has disappeared but I have a STC and ABS service message showing. The car is screaming for power as the lights/radio etc are on their last breath.

Any ideas all? Is it as simple as a replacement battery? What caused me the most concern was the car went into the garage 2 weeks ago for the wheel speed sensor because the display was showing STC/ABS service urgent and only a few days later this happens, coincidence??!!

Post by **regent** » 22 Feb 2013, 11:44

Are you kidding, you have an almost teenage battery, no?

Besides putting in a new battery, you want to check you main power supply from the battery (+) to the main fusebox in the engine compartment. Inspect the crimps of the ring terminals at the box and the terminal post for loose connections and signs of overheating or discoloration. Poor contact in the main distribution will cause a significant momentary voltage drop during cranking, and/or the no start that you've had. In addition, it may get the computer VERY upset

Remember to disconnect the battery negative cable before starting inspection or any repair on the main distribution bus.

It looks like the STC/ABS trouble messages are a result from the power surges that caused havoc in the CAN and most probably, some modules dropped off sync.
Try fixing the power and then read and clear all codes that may have been stored. Clearing the codes should resolve this (provided there is no hard fault)

Post by **precopster** » 23 Feb 2013, 01:44

Remember to turn on ignition to Pos II and reconnect new battery. This is the preferred method of gettong all the modules back on line. Once engine is started check the voltage while the engine is running.and see if it's over 13.5V

Tony1979 · Post by **Tony1979** » 24 Feb 2013, 08:46

Sorry with the delay in answering all, newborn baby and all!

I got myself a voltage reader and it displayed non running at 9.2V this with the drilling/clicking sound was still present so I put my Mrs car jump leads on and voila car starts, I take the leads off and do another reading and it shows 14.1V running on its own steam.

I then went for a good run of 30 miles, stopped at the fuel station stopped and the car started no problem. I'm no genius but I'm thinking the battery is not holding its charge?!

fn42 · Post by **fn42** » 24 Feb 2013, 10:09

Tony1979 wrote:Sorry with the delay in answering all, newborn baby and all!

I got myself a voltage reader and it displayed non running at 9.2V this with the drilling/clicking sound was still present so I put my Mrs car jump leads on and voila car starts, I take the leads off and do another reading and it shows 14.1V running on its own steam.

I then went for a good run of 30 miles, stopped at the fuel station stopped and the car started no problem. I'm no genius but I'm thinking the battery is not holding its charge?!

sounds like classic bad battery to me

Post by **precopster** » 24 Feb 2013, 13:49

Definitely need a battery.