Problem after transmission fluid change

Post by **erikv11** » 27 Feb 2013, 08:23

Dist cap I am specifically thinking about a leaky cam seal dumping oil in there, but sure it could be dirty for other reasons. Main point is to look at all ignition components. There are many threads on here about engines that run like crap, with or without misfire codes, and the problem traces back to ignition. How old are the wires? There will be a date code on them.

O2 sensors, ECT sound fine, that's good. How was the cat checked? Unless it was checked, I wouldn't assume it is fine.

FPR the idea is whether or not the fuel system holds pressure, not if it leaks.

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 27 Feb 2013, 09:07

Well was telling you that I changed the fuel filter since you asked what I changed... "I don't remember what all was done recently on your car"
I will check ignition parts and see how that goes...

Post by **regent** » 27 Feb 2013, 11:06

FPR the idea is whether or not the fuel system holds pressure, not if it leaks.

FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator
You may want to verify that the system maintains pressure

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 27 Feb 2013, 18:23

I don't have a way to check the fuel pressure at home. Btw, the FPR I believe is close to the fuel filter correct? I think it is, this is a 97 model....
I ordered a new distributor cap & rotor (Bosch),the ones on the car now are both original so won't hurt to replace them.

Also ordered 2 transmission cooling lines to reconnect the trans to the radiator. I am aware that if the trans is faulty it won't fix the problem but I need them anyway.
It's really hard to go about this issue when I don't have a single code to work with but... in time, it will be fixed.
If you guys have more ideas....

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 06 Mar 2013, 19:54

I have been busy and still did not take the car to the trans shop, but I checked under the battery and the trans was connected to a small radiator which is in front of the main one so the trans was actually cooled, I guess the last guy who replaced the trans made that modification.
I was wondering, under the battery holder, what is that pump? Is it the air pump? Kinda looks dirty, I will check all connections etc...
Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 06 Mar 2013, 20:14

The small device that is connected to the underside of the battery tray itself, is the vacuum pump for the cruise control.

The air pump is also down in that area. The air pump is larger, down lower (closer to the ground), like a half the size of a gallon milk jug, and connects to the body of the car. E.g. Air pump fix tutorial volvo.

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 06 Mar 2013, 20:18

erikv11 wrote:The small device that is connected to the underside of the battery tray itself, is the vacuum pump for the cruise control.

The air pump is also down in that area. The air pump is larger, down lower (closer to the ground), like a half the size of a gallon milk jug, and connects to the body of the car. E.g. Air pump fix tutorial volvo.

Cool, thanks for the quick reply...

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 25 Mar 2013, 20:32

Hello, been out of town so little time to get the car worked on....
Anyway, here is an update, car still runs like hell.... doubt more and more it's a transmission issue.
Tonite I drove it a bit and finally the check engine light came on!!!
P0410 "Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction"
I guess it has something to do with the air pump etc... but would this affect how the car runs, accelerates, etc.... ???? Thanks!

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Mar 2013, 22:09

The p0410 is a very common nuisance code, the SAS valve goes bad and the air pump fills up with water. So 99% of the time that code will not affect how the engine runs. An exception is if there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the SAS system, that is bad enough to affect air:fuel mixture.

So in short, check for vacuum leak, otherwise the p0410 is a red herring. In the meantime reset the code and check the air pump, but I wouldn't get too excited about that particular code.

This really reeks of something electrical, all those earlier posts you were saying it gets worse when the car is warm (is that still true?). So if the ignition system has been checked out by now, maybe even if it hasn't I would try testing the MAF. Easy enough to do if you haven't already: with the car off unplug the MAF, then start it up and drive around. If the symptoms are gone, the MAF was your problem. Will set a code you can just clear it.

Francois850 · Post by **Francois850** » 25 Mar 2013, 22:36

The MAF had issues in the past and the symptoms were totally different. I put a new few months ago (OEM Bosch) and it fixed the problem I had.
When I release the gas pedal, I hear a very faint hissing sound... leak?
I am excited when a code is triggered because so far, since the issue, I never got a single one!
I also did that stall test where you put the car on D and hit the brakes and then go full power, i get 1600 RPM max instead of 2600. Based on what I researched, it points to 2 issues : the torque converter is shot or the catalytic converter is clogged...

Problem after transmission fluid change

Re: Problem after transmission fluid change