1998 s70 will not run

Post by **precopster** » 09 Apr 2013, 03:52

Firing order is 1-2-4-5-3 and going in a anti-clockwise direction; is this item checked 100% ??

Also check the lead heading to the cam sensor and see that it's well away from any high voltage spark plug leads

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 09 Apr 2013, 11:07

O.K. guys, I changed the plugs to a copper core. The car actually started but real rough. It ran for about 10 seconds or so then died. Almost like it flooded out. i watied a few mins tried again and it done the same thing. I'm wondering if Precopster is on to something. I think I can buy the TPS and the temp sensor for around $40.00 to $50.00 each. And by the way, I do have the firing order exactly as shown in the pic.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Apr 2013, 12:15

Strong smell of fuel from the exhaust ??

Post by **mercuric** » 09 Apr 2013, 12:36

You should be able to test the TPS rather than just replacing it, assuming you have a voltmeter. really all it is.. is a potentiometer voltage divider that uses the ~0.2-4.something voltage range to inform the ECU where the throttle is. Backprobe the connector and see what she's showing.. One of the pins will give you a variable voltage if it's working. If you need the pinout I can dig that up when I get home...

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 09 Apr 2013, 17:57

Does the car need to be running to test the TPS ?
BOB

Post by **precopster** » 09 Apr 2013, 18:28

I'll be back home soon and I have an inlet manifold here with a TPS attached. Ignition on should be the only requirement as it may require power to create a measurable output.

I'll check mine with a meter and get back to you.

Post by **mercuric** » 09 Apr 2013, 21:49

Yes, ignition on good enough. You don't want it running, because you'll be opening the throttle to test the range of the TPS. Key in "on" position supplies the power to test.

Pin 1: Ground, brown/black stripe wire
Pin 2: source voltage from ECU, violet wire
Pin 3: Signal to ECU, orange/white stripe wire

Carefully backprobe the harness side of the connector, pins 1 and 3 (get it set up securely before you turn the ignition on)
Negative lead of meter to pin1, positive lead to pin3.
Should get about half a volt at idle, a little over 4 or so at full throttle, and a smooth voltage curve in between.

If you don't get voltage, make sure there is supply voltage between 1 and 2.
If you don't get supply voltage there, test between 2 and chassis ground.
If you get voltage between 2 and ground but not 1 and 2, the ground lead is the problem.
No voltage anywhere indicates the ECU is not feeding it, most likely a wiring issue.

Youtube search netted a video:

Post by **precopster** » 09 Apr 2013, 22:17

To test out of circuit with no connector:

a) Between pins 1 & 3 (from left to right) you should have 1K ohm throttle closed and 2.18K ohm throttle fully open
b) Between pins 2 & 3 (from left to right) you should have 2.49K ohm throttle closed and 1.30K ohm throttle fully open

Also do your voltage and earth checks as above in mercuric's post

During draft mode these new fonts show the decimal point b/w these numbers but upon publishing they don't show as well. Hmmm

Post by **mercuric** » 09 Apr 2013, 23:25

^^ Nice, great info... especially for pulling one at the yard!

Post by **E Showell** » 11 Apr 2013, 14:33

If the engine coolant temperature sensor is original to the car, at 189K, that would be my vote for the culprit. Replace the thermostat at the same time.