Dipstick / tube / O-ring part numbers

Post by **erikv11** » 09 Mar 2013, 13:14

Yeah, never been a problem for me either. But sometimes it is good to know what a lot of people are saying. Doesn't make them right ...

PDLarson · Post by **PDLarson** » 29 Mar 2013, 22:15

FUDGE! Just got my parts and I cannot figure out how to mount the dipstick tube. I ordered the updated part numbers that are specified when trying to order the original part numbers. The lengths and markings on the ends of the dipsticks match up when inserted into their tubes. The trouble is that the replacement tube has the mounting bracket in the middle instead of at the top of the tube. So instead of lining up to the mounting hole on the intake manifold, the mounting bracket lands approx under the ETM but I cannot see where there is anything there for it to mount to. FUDGE! I shoulda' just ordered one O-ring and called it a day.

I "borrowed" an O-ring from the new dipstick. This holds the old stick into the old tube really nicely. So now my plan is to get a replacement O-ring so I can return these parts if I need to. But this leaves unsolved the bigger question, what the right parts are if I want to replace the dipstick and tube in this car?

PDLarson · Post by **PDLarson** » 29 Apr 2013, 14:43

Well it seems my original part number for the tube was incorrect. That's what happens when rookies try to use VADIS and then figure out part substitutions on their own.

Anyway, apparently the correct number for the dipstick tube for a '99 V70 XC is 9497554 All the other numbers were correct.

I just ordered one and we'll see soon. I'll try to follow up with pics of everything.

Post by **cn90** » 29 Apr 2013, 14:52

What is wrong with using 850 dipstick as I mentioned above.
Keep it simple.

PDLarson · Post by **PDLarson** » 29 Apr 2013, 17:48

erikv11 wrote:According to many posts about this over at at Volvospeed, the new dipstick tube is supposedly much better at not splattering oil.

Doesn't make them right like erikv said, doesn't make me right, different strokes for different folks, etc.

Mainly because I already have a dipstick with a single O ring that blows out of the tube, I'm sure I could get a single O ring for a few dollars and be fine for 14 more years but I'm opting for the redesigned type, just my choice and not much more to it than that. I guess to me it's like why do some people like white meat, some like dark, why, who knows. I'm just going for the redesign.

Post by **cn90** » 29 Apr 2013, 17:59

The problem is: the re-design has a tighter double O-ring system, so by being tight, it may mask the clogged PCV symptoms.

PS: My Honda and BMW have single O-ring on dipstick.

PDLarson · Post by **PDLarson** » 30 Apr 2013, 19:53

True but I don't go by an oil soaked engine bay to know if I need my PCV serviced. PCV currently seems ok, dipstick at idle or mild revving doesn't smoke or have any pressure. The stick is so loose I think it vibrates up and out. Keeping the stick tied down is unacceptable and I want a fix I don't have to worry about again. I'll take my chances on not knowing PCV may need help because it blew the stick out.

Post by **cn90** » 01 May 2013, 09:58

This is info for future readers...

When dealing with this issue (oil coming out of dipstick), chances are the PCV system is blocked.
Below is the suggested sequence of repair:

1. Search forum for DIYs by "jblackburn" and "cn90". Do a PCV Overhaul first because a blocked PCV can:
- Blow oil out of dipstick, which is the least of the problem.
- Blow the front/rear cam seals, a slightly bigger problem
- Blow the RMS, now this is disaster.

2. Then fix the dipstick issue, choices are:
a. Stick to factory 850 dipstick as I posted above, $15 later problem is solved. This is what I did.
b. Modify to the newer design with new housing and new dipstick with double O-ring, and pay more money for that.

PDLarson · Post by **PDLarson** » 01 May 2013, 23:09

Maybe add option 2 c)

PDLarson wrote:Or, if you just want to try new O-rings:
955973 - Volvo Oil Dipstick O-Ring $2.01ea...

My temporary fix of "borrowing" an O ring from the new dipstick that I cannot install yet is actually working quite well. The old O ring was simply so bad, it's like it wasn't even there. The dipstick could just walk itself right up out of the tube and yes from vibration, not PCV back pressure. But yes, the advice above is a great summary and great suggestions.

Post by **erikv11** » 02 May 2013, 08:12

cn90 wrote:This is info for future readers...
...
2. Then fix the dipstick issue, choices are:
a. Stick to factory 850 dipstick as I posted above, $15 later problem is solved. This is what I did.
b. Modify to the newer design with new housing and new dipstick with double O-ring, and pay more money for that.

Actually, 2a strikes me as a silly choice for fixing a walking dipstick, I disagree. PDLarson has been spot on. Sure, 2a looks smarter than 2b when you happen to write them down next to each other, but why would you ever do 2a? Buy an identical, new dipstick just because the old one is walking out?

Just put a new o-ring on the old one. Maybe cn90 is confusing the simple issues in this post with the separate problem of a broken dipstick handle.

As spelled out clearly in the very first post, the best options seem to be (2a) new o-ring or (2b) new style dipstick/tube.

Dipstick / tube / O-ring part numbers

Re: Dipstick / tube / O-ring part numbers