Wheel bearing time...

Post by **rspi** » 23 Apr 2013, 17:56

Sweet, I'll do that. I really appreciate the help.

Post by **xHeart** » 24 Apr 2013, 06:38

rspi wrote:Sweet, I'll do that. I really appreciate the help.

LoL!!!

Post by **xHeart** » 24 Apr 2013, 08:32

cn90 reminds us, the torx bolt would strip if the socket is not seated properly.

Post by **cn90** » 24 Apr 2013, 09:26

rspi,

Buy a propane torch at hardware store ($12).
For every bolt and nut that is rusted, when you heat, heat the "nut" side (see RED arrows).
So in this case, heat the bearing side, exactly where the Torx bolts go in.
Heat it for a good minute, it will be much easier to remove the Torx bolts.

: bearing.JPG (15.08 KiB) Viewed 1029 times

Post by **98T5** » 24 Apr 2013, 13:41

wheel hub assembly time for both my cars on the passenger side. both cars V70 and 940 are making noise from the hub.
oh goodie!

but I'm switching these things as needed, though some people do both sides even if one side is still quiet. I don't have that kinda time.

Post by **misha** » 24 Apr 2013, 19:31

98T5 wrote:...some people do both sides even if one side is still quiet...

There is no need to replace both of them if just one is bad.But usually...when one of them(on the same axle)fails,the other one will fail soon.There are no rules.

Post by **rspi** » 10 May 2013, 19:32

Got my bearing in the mail today. Will PB Blaster be as good as the torch? I think I already have a torch around here somewhere.

I plan to do the job Monday. I'll need to go get the inverted torque bits. I got new bolts from FCP a few weeks ago. Looks like a straight forward job but I guess I should get a alignment afterwards.

I am planning a 4,000 mile road trip for the end of the month so I don't want to listen to a bearing all that time.

Post by **rspi** » 10 May 2013, 19:42

I thought the link to VolvoSpeed was to CN90's instruction booklet. I'll search the database.

Post by **abscate** » 11 May 2013, 08:55

PB Blaster is only Defcon 3 IMHO.

Propane or MAPP gas is Defcon 2...definite step up.

You can try 50% ATF 50% acetone as in between. Don't get any fire around acetone, though......FOOOM!!!!

Post by **xHeart** » 11 May 2013, 18:22

rspi wrote:Got my bearing in the mail today. Will PB Blaster be as good as the torch? I think I already have a torch around here somewhere.

I plan to do the job Monday. I'll need to go get the inverted torque bits. I got new bolts from FCP a few weeks ago. Looks like a straight forward job but I guess I should get a alignment afterwards.

I am planning a 4,000 mile road trip for the end of the month so I don't want to listen to a bearing all that time.

I have replaced both front on my two cars with TIMKEN/FAG.

cn90 and Ozark Lee highlight two critical steps before you begin.
1) clean the torx head surface fully to help the socket seat, turn using pull pressure, do not slip. I stripped one, took me an hour to file away the bent torx edge. 2) it needs counter-hold, after removing axle I hand tighten at strut, and outer tie rod for support

Bolts pass through the knuckle and screw on to hub-bearing assembly, PB Blaster overnight would do the job using 1/2 " breaker bar. The exposed 3-5 threads at each bolt may have deteriorated.

I cleaned the knuckle back to metal before putting new one.
I would align.

Wheel bearing time...

Re: Wheel bearing time...