1998 s70 will not run

Post by **erikv11** » 11 May 2013, 17:14

One tooth off is not a big deal. It will not run as well as when it is on, but some may not even notice the difference. It's worth correcting, but not the major problem. Will not cause engine damage.

To correct the timing, you need to put the crank on the correct mark BEFORE you take off the belt. Then you take off the belt and make the cams line up with the crank. Doing it the other way around is not good - when the crank is not on the mark, the cams can not be turned, and when the belt is off the crank should not be moved (but there is a little leeway).

Since the belt is already off you want to be careful here, you won't bend the valves ("internal damage") by hand unless you really wail on it, but you do need to get it back in time. Hopefully you haven't moved it a bunch and can put it back to where it was when you first took off the belt? That would be the best place to start. The timing needs such a small adjustment, this should be relatively easy.

So where is the crank right now?
Similarly where are the cams - close to their marks no the timing cover?

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 12 May 2013, 07:58

ericv11, Presently the crank is on the marks as well as the cams. I don't know how much "too" is, although I can tell you I moved it all the way around until it stopped and I could not move it any more. I did not apply any amount of pressure to the crank after it stopped. I had the belt off at this time. I had to go counter clock-wise to get it back to the timing marks. Should the # 1 cylinder be at top dead center when the timing marks are right on? If it should be, I can tell you its not. I did replace the distributer cap and rotor without marking anything, but the is rotor pointing at the # 1 spark plug. I'm not sure if it can only go one way. I am a novice at this sort of thing, but I am learning a lot.
Bob

Post by **erikv11** » 12 May 2013, 09:57

Sounds like you are fine, you did all the right things. When the crank is on the mark, #1 is a few cm below not quite at TDC. That is why it is OK to move the cams when the crank is on the mark. Rotor can only go one way.

Sounds like it is ready to finish the timing belt re-install. May run a little better too! TRhe timing likes to slip a tooth on reinstall, make sure it is all in time when you are done.

EDITed potentially misleading estimation of piston height

Post by **precopster** » 12 May 2013, 15:15

STOP

The #1 piston is ONLY about 2mm shy of TDC when crank is on the mark. You've used the wrong mark and you WILL damage pistons if you crank the engine with number 1 piston well below deck height.

Go to the Tracy's True Soap tutorial for head gasket replacement and see the position. There's a way to reference crank mark by removing the starter and inserting a 3/8 socket extension in the plug hole with Allen head. Do this first as something is not right with your crank referencing.

Hope I caught you in time:o

Post by **erikv11** » 12 May 2013, 15:35

2 mm? I think it's more like 1 cm, enough that if you are using something like a zip tie to watch the piston come up, it is clearly not at the top yet.

Post by **precopster** » 12 May 2013, 15:40

I've had 3 white block fives both 10 and 20 valve apart for headwork recently and they are definitely no more than 3mm below deck height on cylinder 1.

The OP will bend valves

Post by **erikv11** » 12 May 2013, 15:43

precopster wrote:...
The OP will bend valves

Not if the crank is on the proper mark. Your steering him to a head gasket/timing tutorial is smart, make sure he's using the right mark(s).

Post by **precopster** » 12 May 2013, 15:53

It's definitlely worth another look. I would pull the starter and reference crank TDC. The socket extension will drop in the hole when crank is lined up.

Post by **precopster** » 12 May 2013, 16:47

Added photos above. You can see that the socket extension is inserted in each photo

boballen · Post by **boballen** » 13 May 2013, 11:59

One thing I failed to mention and I feel it is very important is that the spark plugs in the #1 and 2 cylinders are very fouled compared to the 4-5-3. By fouled I mean the white ceramic at the firing point of those two plugs are black and always wet when I pull them. The others are nice and clean (white ceramic) . I did replace them twice since I started the project. What does this tell us. Another question is, what is OP ? I'm assuming oil pressure. By pulling the starter and inserting a socket extend, does all the do is hold the crank in a certain position?

Bob