Adding Freon

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 18 Jul 2013, 11:34

Hello, where do I put the Freon? Will a kit from Walmart or Napa work? Is there anything I should know? Should the car be running? Is there a certain kind of Freon?

lindy8_man · Post by **lindy8_man** » 18 Jul 2013, 12:08

First things first! we will need to know before we can help you:

What is the year and make of your Volvo?

What state?

When you turn your AC on does the compressor come on? (You should see the middle of the compressor spinning, and hear a load added to your idling motor. Does it come on for a while then switch off and repeat within seconds?

Post by **jimmy57** » 18 Jul 2013, 12:11

I assume this is for the 96 960.
Run car at high idle speed, 1300 - 1500 rpm. use a stick between pedal and seat, adjust seat to hold that speed.
set fan to #4
select recirc

Use R134a, don't get the super duper stop leak clears sinuses and relieves pain extra cost stuff.
The hoses fitting only fits the low side fitting which you'll find in front of passenger side by that aluminum cylinder.
Add it with can in upright position, liquid addition with can upside down can harm compressor.
there is a large aluminum line coming forward and then down from that silver cylinder, add some, wait a minute and check to see if that large line is freezing cold. Add for 45 seconds then check that line. It is full when that line is freezing cold and sweats a lot.
You can get two 12 oz cans or they may have an 18 0z large can. You may need as much as 15 ounces or as little as 8 ounces to make it cold.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 18 Jul 2013, 12:38

In response to lindy8_man, yes it comes on for a while clicks, then switches off and repeats within seconds. Is that a problem?

lindy8_man · Post by **lindy8_man** » 18 Jul 2013, 13:15

Right, so as Jimmy said. The large aluminum pipe is the low pressure end of the system. There should be a green cap that twists off. When you pick the Freon can, I would go with one that has a gauge so you can make sure the amount of Freon is correct.

That it clicks on and off like that is normal for having to add more.

Watch for any of that yellow dye squishing out of your pipes and fittings. This indicates a leak.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 18 Jul 2013, 13:38

Ok, thank you so very much. I really appreciate your help in this matter. Off to the auto parts store I go!

lindy8_man · Post by **lindy8_man** » 18 Jul 2013, 15:31

Oh yea, the compressor should stop cycling like that after it is filled up. That cycling every couple seconds is to prevent the compressor from burning up when the pressure on the low side drops below whatever the minimum setting is.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 19 Jul 2013, 14:31

Alright, I have air yahoooo. But, the air will blow and then stop. Sometimes it is when I am idling, going up a small hill or just out of the blue. Any ideas? Thanks.

Post by **jimmy57** » 19 Jul 2013, 16:11

The doors controlling air discharge are vacuum operated on that car. There are two check valves at firewall on RH side that can fail.
The floor defrost servo is set to floor when face vents are active and that servo can leak vac
The recirc servo is prone to leak vac.
the electric solenoid valve bank can have a cracked solder joint. This last one usually puts the system in floor/defrost for long periods not related to pulling hills or accelerating.

If you know it happens after car is cooled down inside and recirc is not manually selected on panel then recirc can be ruled out.
The servo for floor defrost is above to the right of accel pedal. If you remove the yellow hose from the round diaphragm (servo) unit and plug it with something and problem stops then that is the culprit.

The vacuum source is the engine. WHen pulling hills or accelerating the vac level goes way down or goes away altogether. The system should not leak vacuum so the check valves hold vacuum in system for those periods. If the servos leak then they lose the vacuum and leak and when engine makes no vacuum the servos go back to their spring loaded neutral positions. Floor and defrost outlets discahrge air when there is no vacuum. It feels like no air comes out but if you feel on top of dash you'll feel the air.

lindy8_man · Post by **lindy8_man** » 19 Jul 2013, 17:54

This is a common problem for these cars. There were three servos under my dash. Two were leaking. I had all three done and a new heater core put in while the dash board was out. Expensive, but I shouldn't need back under there for a while...