Cooling Fan Relays, Gasoline Smells, & Other Junk To Fix

Post by **mikealder** » 18 Aug 2013, 12:27

jackmac94 wrote:Would my fuel pump quit because I do not have a charged battery? It seems like the last few times I tried starting the vehicle my battery either had no or little power to even get the starter motor going.

Looking for electrical faults with a flat battery is asking for trouble as it introduces one more variable, get it charged and start the fault diagnosis again before you try pulling the pump out - Mike

Post by **Pauloil** » 18 Aug 2013, 20:31

you can also look at the resistance of the pump by pulling relay 103 and checking resistance from 15 slot to ground. if no resistance pump is bad should be 1.5ohms, some multiple of this

nedro018 · Post by **nedro018** » 19 Aug 2013, 17:33

You DID say you checked all your small spade relays. The 15A one in #2 slot comes AFTER relay 103 so reseat it and swap it before tackling the pump.

nedro018 · Post by **nedro018** » 19 Aug 2013, 17:38

Oops forgot. I had gas odors and did search on this forum and found culprit but cant recall exact fix but had to do with the roll over valve on passenger side rt above fuel filter. I dont think it was the valve itself but the hoses going to it. It fixed mine. Thats a brutal place to hang your hat if youre a rubber hose.

Post by **abscate** » 20 Aug 2013, 02:05

Have you checked or 12 VDZc getting to the pump from the relay? Last thing to do before replacing pump.

jackmac94 · Post by **jackmac94** » 27 Aug 2013, 09:28

I did check to see if there were 12 Volts going the the pump. It turned out that when I checked the fuse a third time I did not get any juice. Thanks to a very well educated friend, he took me through a step by step method to see where my electrical problem was.
First, I had already dropped my tank as explained how by a different thread on the site.
Fuel Pump & Tank Removal DIY: 850, S70 & Gen 1 V70
So when I did this I busted one of the fuel lines trying to remove the pump, specifically the one going from the pump to the filter, I broke the 90 elbow that attaches to the pump. I had no idea you just push down on the connector and pull the whole connector up.

: The connector is next to the rubber mallet left of it.

: The top-side of the fuel tank dropped.

Next, I decided to take the whole line out, since I was going to have to replace it.
Afterwards my friend, let's call him Mo, wanted to see if it actually was the pump or not that was causing the problem. We followed this diagram

l wiring diagrams.pdf: (142.94 KiB) Downloaded 123 times

Anyways, so what we started with was checking to see if there where any faults in the ground-side of the connector from the fuel pump. Mo liked to start from the problem area and work in the direction of the fault. He used a multimeter to see if the connector from the pump had a good ground. So we checked for the resistance or OHMs and we saw that it had very little resistance but Mo said that could be because of his meter that there was any resistance at all. I guess no resistance would have been the best thing to see. (Correct me if I'm wrong) Also, if there wasn't a proper ground would it have shown a bunch of different readings?
Next, we worked with the harness tracing it back on the diagram to the the FPR and found that it was only getting .6 Volts when I turned the car on. So we looked and looked for a while wondering what else the FPR connects to. We found that the before even the fuse in the fuse block (central electrical unit) there is an Overhead Relay 15+ which is used to cut power in case the volts creep up to high when you accelerate too fast and the alternator starts spinning very quickly and sends more power than usual. That is kind of my take on it. If I am off please let me know those relays are used for. So the three relays labeled J in the fuse block are what those are for.

: The three black relays labeled J are interchangeable.

Finally! It was glorious, we switched the relays and found the exact amount of volts from the battery going to the fuse, fpr, and even the fuel pump! Today I am going to the autoparts store to pick up a few cheap relays and a new fuel line and hopefully I will be back in business. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments. I will post what I have done when I get back.

jackmac94 · Post by **jackmac94** » 14 Jan 2014, 22:28

I'm back.
Progress so far:
No start, turns over! but no start, I replaced the broken fuel line with an oem product, new fuel filter, new regulator relay for the fuel pump relay, new fuel pressure regulator(used), new fuel rail, new injector seals and filter(I have not installed them yet), did I mention it still doesn't start yet? I'll explain.

So after putting my tank in and testing the fuel line for anymore problems I tried to start the car which was a no go. A friend helped me isolate the problem. The cylinders were not getting fuel, the injectors haven't been tested with a multimeter or anything but something before them is causing a problem.
My journey brought me to the fuel pressure regulator, when I try to prime the system the fuel only goes to the regulator and no further. I have seen evidence of gasoline leaking around the regulator but even replacing the regulator with a used unit hasn't helped. I thought maybe my pump wasn't sending fuel at a high enough pressure but I got a weird reading from my fuel pressure gauge. It jumped to ~98 psi. Is this possible? For some reason to me it seems kind of high, but if it is correct then here is my question.
Why won't fuel open up my regulator? I tried pulling a vacuum on the regulator to open the diaphragm but it was no use. Tonight I did make an unusual observation though. After I prime the system, which only goes to the regulator, the fuel pump doesn't engage when I try to turn the car over. But as soon as I go back to ignition in the key slot it tries to prime again. Is this important at all? Why doesn't my regulator open? All the components to the end of the fuel system were cut off while testing so the only thing at the end of my fuel sending line is the regulator now.
Any help would be appreciated.

jackmac94 · Post by **jackmac94** » 25 Jan 2014, 21:49

Found the problem! I'm just going to say it, I put the fuel lines on backwards and didn't bother to check which line was the fuel supply and return line... so yeah. Now I have a running Volvo!

Anyways, the car runs, better than my other car. But it has a misfire on cylinder #5 and the front shocks are out. I am still stuck on a couple things like:
radiator fan does NOT come on at all and it I think something may be wrong with my temperature sensor or gauge, my misfire problem is new but it really needs to be checked, my fuel gauge comes on intermittently, the lines to the charcoal canister are disintegrated, and I think the rear main seals may have gone out or some kind of seal because of caked up oil around the engine block and head.

I will be consulting the forums for answers but as of now I can Volvo!!!