96 850t burning or leaking coolant after head gasket

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Oct 2013, 22:57

Where was the burnt valve, #2? I don't remember.

In the pic, it looks like there is a different style valve in #2, and in #5. That's why I asked.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:04

The burnt valve was on #1. Not sure why some of the exhaust valves are darker.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:10

Walked out to the barn with my fingers crossed, hoping for a big puddle on the floor, but nothing. I did top up the coolant last night, and the level is down to the MIN marker...but I can't see where it's going, or where from.

Started the car and the exhaust is still a misty white, not opaque, but definitely water in it. I'm really down over this, and I really don't want to have to tear it all out again to put in a new head gasket. I guess I'll be able to do it much faster this time though.

Going to recheck the water pipe bolts again, hoping maybe it's that. The only thing I can think of is that I did put a bit of gasket maker on the gasket to stick it to the water pipe before setting the head on. Should I have used RTV silicon sealant instead?

If I go in to put in a new head gasket, can I reuse all the other gaskets, since I know they're new/good? I want to keep costs low, and don't want to pay for anymore gaskets that I won't need, just the head gasket.

Either way it's looking like I'm gonna have to invest another $100 or so and a couple more days time into this thing. Planning now on installing a new lower thermostat housing, new water pipe gasket, and then if that doesn't fix it, a new head gasket.

Post by **mtd240** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:26

How does your oil look?

Fill up the coolant and leave it for another day. Pull all the spark plugs (and disable fuel), and have someone crank the car while you watch the engine. Coolant should spray out of the problem cylinder, if there is one. If it doesn't, and your oil looks fine, then its got to be external.. This is how I diagnosed my 240's headgasket issue.. almost got sprayed in the face with coolant, though - be careful ha.

futureboycolin · Post by **futureboycolin** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:35

Thanks mtd, I'll try that. That's the other thing, I haven't noticed any milky oil on the dipstick.

Post by **northernlights** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:49

futureboycolin wrote: I used Permatex Copper Spray on the head gasket and the exhaust manifold gaskets.

I have used the copper coat before, but only on steel shim gaskets on ancient domestic engines. In my experience, composition gaskets are always installed dry. I have not seen a B5234 head gasket before, but I assume it is a composition gasket. The copper coat may be causing problems.

The following is from Volvo.

Clean:
mating faces exhaust manifold/cylinder head
engine block gasket face
coolant pipe gasket face
gasket face between upper/lower halves of cylinder heads
NOTE:
Do not use a metal scraper.
Use a soft putty knife and gasket solvent part No. 1 161 340-3, or equivalent.
Surfaces must be completely clean to ensure a seal.

Install lower half of cylinder head:
Replace cylinder head gasket
Oil screws.
Tighten screws in three stages as follows, working outwards: 1st stage20 Nm (15 ft lb)
2nd stage60 Nm (44 ft lb)
3rd stage130° , use angle gauge tool No. 951 2050, or equivalent

Post by **rspi** » 31 Oct 2013, 08:56

erikv11 wrote:Where was the burnt valve, #2? I don't remember.

In the pic, it looks like there is a different style valve in #2, and in #5. That's why I asked.

No, that's 1 and 4, I didn't catch that. Looks like this car has burnt a valve before unless they replaced 2 valves this time.

Post by **rspi** » 31 Oct 2013, 09:03

northernlights wrote: I have not seen a B5234 head gasket before, but I assume it is a composition gasket. The copper coat may be causing problems.

Here is a picture of the gasket. It has some rubberized coating on it. I have read where others have used the copper spray and did not have issues after. As you said, that is some old school stuff that mechanics stand by, especially performance mechanics. I did NOT use the stuff.

Post by **rspi** » 31 Oct 2013, 09:42

Did you get both bolts on the water pipe in the back? Did that gasket slip?

If there is a crack in the block, will it mix fluids?

Post by **northernlights** » 31 Oct 2013, 09:50

The part that worries me is the funky slit in the deck between the cylinders as far as sealing. I'm sure it's there for a reason, but the fact that it's different makes me nervous about non-factory repair techniques. I do not believe I have seen it in other engines - any idea if it is present in all of the Volvo 5 cylinders?