2001 V70XC Parking Brake Cable Adjustment

Post by **xHeart** » 11 Nov 2013, 14:45

It takes 9 ratchet to engage the parking brakes. Here are two photos.
Does the nut needs tightening more?

: Parking Brake Adjustment

The item in circle is angled, should it be parallel to..., even when pulled? How?

: Parking Brake Cable

Many thanks!

Post by **DGM** » 12 Nov 2013, 07:04

xHeart wrote:It takes 9 ratchet to engage the parking brakes. Here are two photos.
Does the nut needs tightening more?

Normally it is adjusted at 5 ratchet teeth. Before to adjust I would check condition of cables and shoes.

xHeart wrote:The item in circle is angled, should it be parallel to..., even when pulled? How?

Yes. It indicates a seized cable or something wrong with the shoes mechanism. The lining materials can separate from their supports. Damage can be expensive to repair;

http://atlanticmotorcar.com/case-studie ... rake+volvo

See the following threads for more information;

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=57226

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=42740

Post by **xHeart** » 14 Nov 2013, 12:03

I was planning on replacing rotor and pad in 60-days, now closer, 30-days.
The list of parts for rear brake service are - Zimmerman Z-coated rotors, Akebono brake pads, ATE brake shoes, Volvo shoe spring, what else?

The photo at the link shows damaged dust-plate. I will check mine this weekend.

Many thanks.

Post by **jimmy57** » 14 Nov 2013, 13:54

The overextension of the left side would tell me the left park brake shoes have debonded or disintegrated. Also could be just a cable broken.

Post by **DGM** » 14 Nov 2013, 17:48

xHeart wrote: The photo at the link shows damaged dust-plate. I will check mine this weekend.

Many thanks.

The aluminum block shown in the link is a broken off part of the hub assembly. It happens when the shoes mechanism jammed inside the rotor. In these extreme cases the hub must be replaced. That's why it is good practice to inspect shoes regularly as mentioned in the link.

You can't go wrong with the quality parts you want to install.

In our northern climate with the salt on the road it is not uncommon to experience seized cables on parking brakes.

Post by **coflynn** » 14 Nov 2013, 18:50

On my car the shoe expander was seized very badly on one side. I was able to get it working again after a LOT of effort cleaning it / packing with grease. Definitely check it's moving freely and perhaps consider having spares on-hand... although it seems like lots of people have no issues with it, so I wouldn't buy it "just because".

Post by **xHeart** » 15 Nov 2013, 13:42

coflynn wrote:On my car the shoe expander was seized very badly on one side. I was able to get it working again after a LOT of effort cleaning it / packing with grease. Definitely check it's moving freely and perhaps consider having spares on-hand... although it seems like lots of people have no issues with it, so I wouldn't buy it "just because".

Do I need a tool to work with parking brake pad, spring etc?

Post by **coflynn** » 16 Nov 2013, 05:19

I had done everything with a largish pair of needle-nose pliers. Having needle nose vice grips was also handy!

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Nov 2013, 10:17

coflynn wrote:I had done everything with a largish pair of needle-nose pliers. Having needle nose vice grips was also handy!

I have the two kinds of needle nose you mentioned coflynn.
Would these have helped in any way http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-brake-spring-pliers-kit-97804.html?

Post by **xHeart** » 29 Nov 2013, 07:02

The procedure for replacing brake pads, rotor is familiar. But the parking brake shoe, et al. is new.
I am working on rear passenger side first, caliper is off and hung, screw holding the disc to hub is out, but the disc is not sliding out after few solid hammer knocks, visibly rusted.

After the thanksgiving break, I am back in my heated garage.
Do I heat/torch the disc, where?
The rear of the disc is exposed where calipers slides on, between 1 and 2 o'clock, rest is covered with the dust shield/plate. Is there a right place to knock for it to slide off the hub?