95 850 GLT Replacing the battery cable bundle

[jhaypizzle]

Hi all,

Was looking for advice/instruction in regards to replacing the positive battery cable bundle, shown below:

Discovered the issue when I tried to start the Volvo and it didn't turnover properly (misfiring, no acceleration when pressing on the pedal, odd engine sound.) After removing the plastic housing around the battery cable bundle, I saw that the corrosion had disintegrated a couple of the wires (what each wire specifically does, I have no idea.)

I was going to do a DIY fix, but after seeing that the cable goes into the chassis on wall into the right, and my knowledge limited to Chilton's guides, I'm guessing I'm gonna need to bring it into a shop. However, if anyone can identify the part and how to replace it, I would greatly appreciate it.

[Pauloil]

unscrew the bad part and find a new end like the old to solder the smaller red wires into. then remove fan shroud, and replace the starter cable, which is available at fcp or ipdusa

[BEJinFbk]

The small wires make up what is referred to as your B+ Cable.
It provides the path from your battery to the main fuse box.
Volvo used a handful of small wires instead of one large cable
to make this run. No reason you can't replace them with a single
chunk of a larger diameter cable. # 6, or even #4 should do it.

Common Problem - Search "B+ Cable" for a pile of hits.
Here's a good example:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=35208

[jhaypizzle]

Thanks guys.

@Pauloil: I'm pretty sure that the cable bundle goes away from the starter, though I know what you are talking about (considering the corrosion, I should replace the starter cable as well [this one from FCP, right?] but I'm gonna have to forgo the thorough fix for the relatively quick fix at this moment.)

@BEJinFbk: Thanks for the link--this seems to confirm that getting into the chassis is a no-go. After removing the air filter box, it seems like a quick fix after getting a replacement cable and routing it under the filter box (instead of under the chassis.) That said, neither IPD or FCP sell a B+ cable--I see a lot of references to B+ cables on this site, but after reading the posts/viewing pictures they're talking about the starter cable.

Will remove the box and will report (and post pictures) tomorrow.

[rspi]

I would just cut 1" off of the ends of what you see and splice an end piece on and keep on going. If it's to short, cut 5" off and add 6" to it with new ends. I don't see why you'd have to attach a whole new wire.

[jhaypizzle]

@rspi: the former suggestion is something I also have considered; the latter not so much, as in general I'm not comfortable having splices. What was really throwing me off from this idea was the corrosion has eroded a significant portion of one wire (see first pic, where my middle finger is) and I don't think I'd be able to get it all off from the terminal...nor do I own a soldering iron. Will add it to the list for tomorrow--thanks!

[Pauloil]

use a torch. freshen up those news, get a new attachment piece, figure out how to stick the wires in, get it good and hot, apply resin core solder.

[jhaypizzle]

Hi all,

So after exploring the idea of replacing the B+ cable bundle, I quickly gave up on the idea when I remove the air filter box, traced the wires into the fuse box and saw that it's definitely NOT as easy as on an S70 (as described in BEJinFbk's link above; let me know if you want me to post a pic of 850's the fuse box and how the B+ cables lead into it.)

Suffice it to say, I'll bring it into a shop to do Pauloil's recommendation and just attach a new spade terminal connector since' I'm lacking in both a torch and solder. Thanks everyone.

[rspi]

The torch is about $15, the solder is about $6 and the end pieces should run about $4.