oil cooler line replacement

[beigg]

yes you can

[cn90]

Question for the gurus...

I have the rectangular seal from dealer, I am replacing the rectangular seal this weekend.

1. Can I do it simply by driving the front on wood ramps? In other words, I'd like to avoid jacking up the car, removing the RF tire etc.

2. Or I have to remove the RF wheel and expose the crank pulley area?

[holler1]

I've only removed the thermostat through the wheel well. I don't think you can get to the thermostat bolts from the bottom. I could be wrong, but even if you can access them I don't believe you could get enough pressure on the Torx tool to turn them without risking stripping.

[cn90]

holler1,

You are correct, the only way to replace the rectangular seal is via the wheel well. Even so, I stripped the rear T40 bolt!!! Read on...

1. Jack up RF area, remove wheel, fold back liner with vise-grip to expose the crank pulley, place jackstands under subframe etc.
- Now you can see the oil leak blown around during driving...
- For the records, P.O. replaced the oil cooler lines x2 and the O-rings, but didn't replace the rectangular seal. So the oil leak was at the rectangular seal area.

2. The FRONT T40 came out nice and easy with this combo:
* L-shaped T40 key + socket + iron pipe.

3. The REAR T40: I stripped it, even with tons of caution (going slow, making sure the T40 key fit properly in the hole etc. etc.). It took close to 1.5h to drill out the bolt head! Finally I realized I had a masonry drill bit, which made the drilling job easier. The bolt head came out. Then I used vise-grips to remove the broken stud.

The dealer was closed, so I used an old Tstat housing bolt (it was longer so I used some nuts/washers to achieve correct height) as a temp fix until I get the correct bolt.
The bottom line: get new bolts before starting this job!

VolvoOilTstat03.JPG (88.18 KiB) Viewed 3031 times

4. For the 10-mm bolt holding the cooler lines bracket (near the AC compressor). The only combo that worked:
* 1/4-inch 10-mm socket + 1/4-inch swivel + 1/4-inch extension/ratchet.

VolvoOilTstat04.JPG (105.1 KiB) Viewed 3031 times

5. For the rectangular seal: I applied a thin smear of wheel-bearing grease to help hold it in place during installation. It worked great. Since you are doing this "blind", use the your finger to sweep around to be sure the seal sits properly in the proper groove.

[cn90]

Can some gurus help re PN? I need PN for:

1. The two (2) T40 bolts that hold the oil tstat housing to the engine.

2. The single Torx bolt that holds the 2 cooler lines to the tstat housing.

Thanks!

[confused_al]

I replaced that seal about a year (1500 miles) ago and it stated leaking again after summer. It could be just my lousy technique, but this time I am going to put some RTV around it.
BTW, nice pics!

[cn90]

I came across a Volvo website (Volvo of Lisle parts website) and saw these PNs:

* The two (2) Torx bolts: 986226. But when checking 986226, it seems this bolt is longer that what I have in my 1998 S70 GLT.

* The single bolt 986212, seems correct.

Bolts.JPG (102.02 KiB) Viewed 3025 times

[erikv11]

Related comment:

I had an oil cooler thermostat leaking after my install, replacing the square o-ring didn't fix it, I finally figured out that the soft aluminum housing was bent, probably from me overtightening it. So I straightened it out now all is well.

[cn90]

Hummm,

Thanks for the tips, I might have done the same thing: over-tightening it.
Will check it this weekend.

[confused_al]

Related comment:

I had an oil cooler thermostat leaking after my install, replacing the square o-ring didn't fix it, I finally figured out that the soft aluminum housing was bent, probably from me overtightening it. So I straightened it out now all is well.

It could be very well my problem, need take this thing apart again