99 xc70 rear girling caliper rebuild kit

Post by **burnout8488** » 26 Feb 2014, 21:55

I just did the late 99 conversion on my S70 AWD. Would you like one of my old early 99 girling calipers? It's a rebuild and is only 2 years old. Private message me if interested, I may not remember to check this thread.

Olivettibakebean · Post by **Olivettibakebean** » 28 Feb 2014, 00:20

@ cn90 They must be different, had no problems when replacing the hose. Not the best design but I managed to free the line/hose without any damage to the heads.

@ burnout You seem to be the person I wish was at the end of every call I made regarding the calipers and differences in years. Thanks for clearing that up.
I got a kit in the end but thanks for the offer, if I have any issues I may get back to you about the caliper.

So after following JDS60R link to centric and double checking the code 143.39015
with a seller I purchased a set from ebay for $12.

Will probably do the job next week, I’ll update with my results. Thanks for all your help guys!

Olivettibakebean · Post by **Olivettibakebean** » 02 Mar 2014, 16:53

So had a look at the job today and was stumped straight away by the rear rotor. Whats holding it on? I can't see a locator bolt on the rotor so I tried removing the other rear wheel to check and again no obvious bolt. How do you get these rotors off?

BTW I know I don't need to remove the rotors to rebuild the caliper, I'm replacing the rotors and want to plan out the work before I waist a day getting no where.

Thanks in advance.

Olivettibakebean · Post by **Olivettibakebean** » 03 Mar 2014, 16:13

I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't cover the awd version of the 99 V70XC.
Not found much that helps online but I'm guessing the wheel holds the rotor on. So I was thinking I'd
remove the wheel
remove caliper and hanger
back off the handbrake from inside (center console)
Attack with a hammer.

Any thoughts?

Post by **cn90** » 03 Mar 2014, 16:25

Parking Brake shoes get stuck.

Post by **E Showell** » 05 Mar 2014, 15:03

+1 on the parking brake shoes. In a worst case scenario, you may get the rotors off but end up stripping the friction material off of the ebrake shoes (don't ask me how I know this).

Olivettibakebean · Post by **Olivettibakebean** » 06 Mar 2014, 23:07

So I did the work today. As I thought in the first place, my car was missing both the back 10mm rotor wheel locator bolt 133027.

I jacked the car up on stands.
Took the parking brake off.
Loosened the parking brake at the handle ie center console.
Took the wheel off, leave one bolt in loose so rotor doesn't fall on you
Removed and hung the caliper.
Loosened the parking brake adjuster through the rotor bolt hole. This will help just scroll down a bit. http://www.justanswer.com/volvo/19o1g-wagon-cabin-air-filter-located-v70-xc.html
Little WD40 and a whack with a wooden mallet, rotor fell off.

The hose to the caliper is new so I loosened it while the caliper was attached and clamped the hose. When I was ready to rebuilt the caliper I just spun it off the hose.
I used my compressor to push out the piston, watch your fingers!!!
Cleaned up the caliper, picked out the inside seal with a tiny flathead and pulled off the dust shield.
More cleaning before rebuilding.
143.39015 is the correct kit for my rear calipers, the older inside seal looks fatter when installed but they're the same.
With some DOT 4 I put the brake back together and refitted.
Not bled yet as I was alone today but prob do it tomorrow.

Some pics:

Old Rotor

Rotor/wheel locator 10mm bolt/pin 133027

Finished product

Rear brake hose/line setup, incase anyone wondered.

Girling Caliper

Old seals

New seals

Post by **cn90** » 07 Mar 2014, 07:45

Great,

Rebuilding a caliper is so easy ($5-$10 for the rebuild kit). If everyone does this as routine maintenance every 120K or so (some would argue against this PM thingy), then you will never buy a rebuilt caliper from local autoparts store.

In any caliper, the metal housing is indestructible. The #1 cause of failure is torn boot, once it is torn, the piston is corroded.
The seal can harden any time.

So every 120K, I rebuilt the entire hydraulic system...but that is just me. Most people prefer to drive until the calipers seize, which is OK with me too.

Olivettibakebean · Post by **Olivettibakebean** » 07 Mar 2014, 13:49

So I had a test drive today, rotor was def warped. Much better now, that said I can hear a pad dragging on the new rotor at slow speeds. Its nothing like when it was warped but maybe the ebrake needs more adjusting. For some reason I think its the inside caliper pad, I'll take a look as soon as I can.

@cn90
Have to agree, rebuild was really simple and any good tutorial will help get over the nerves and just do the work.