Door lock problems

Post by **rspi** » 29 Jun 2012, 08:37

Silicone it is. When I say super glue, I have this stuff called Extreme glue, it's kinda between the two, but I do have silicone.

Post by **rspi** » 01 Jul 2012, 05:08

Ok, I put an ohm meter on the one I tore into and it measured at about 3 ohms. I really didn't know where to take the measurement from since it's like a solid chip. Maybe this latch was good. It had a 1998 date on the sticker. Maybe they lost the remote early on. The edges of it have paint or something on it so I could not get a measurement from the edges, I had to sandwich it. I'm about to go pop it in our S70. I did drop the copper it the motor.

Post by **rspi** » 01 Jul 2012, 14:38

So you are saying that the door is locked closed? It will be tough but I guess you will have to remove the door panel and pop the latch somehow.

Post by **rspi** » 04 Jul 2012, 09:20

Put it all back together today. I'll have to wait to test it. I have the head out right now. When I pulled the door panel 1/2 of the clips came off as usual. The last time I pulled the panel off and the clips came loose I glued them with silicone. That didn't work well because most of them came off again. This time I went back on with liquid nail as I had in the past.

Post by **rspi** » 02 Oct 2013, 12:32

Someone brought this thread to my attention. Yes all of my latches work great now. After 14 months they still work strong.

Post by **rspi** » 02 Oct 2013, 12:38

Here is the thread where I fixed our latches.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=49670

Post by **erikv11** » 30 Mar 2014, 08:58

I am working on a 98 V70 where both rear doors will only lock when using the button or the key.

I inspected the actuator mechanisms and found a surprise: In both cases, the motors are working just fine. Instead, the little red pin that the mechanism pushes against to open the door, is missing (presumably broken off?) on both of them. I repaired one of them by just swapping the good motor over to an assembly with a bad motor I had in the garage. That side is working now, which confirms that the motor has no issues and the problem was just the broken plastic.

Anyway, since the first two I looked at had broken plastic but *not* motor issues, clearly this is another issue to look out for. Just wanted to post that up.

jfairlane · Post by **jfairlane** » 12 Jul 2014, 19:09

Hi!

Yes... the resistor trick works... but it's a real pain in the butt to get the motor tabs apart to take apart the motor. I ended up slamming the motor shaft against a hard surface until I could get it loose enough to pry under the tabs. Swedes should NOT build cars... and I'm a Swede.

The next problem is soldering a link across the resistor sides to bridge them. I used copper braid. For the next one I'll use copper foil. I had to file the braid because the armature hit it. All in all 4 hours to do one door. If you need advice, please ask. I plan to do three more doors.

BTW... Elmers super glue with the brush glued the case back together after prying it apart. The glue stuck like welding. = )

James

Post by **cn90** » 05 Dec 2015, 23:43

erikv11 wrote:I am working on a 98 V70 where both rear doors will only lock when using the button or the key.

I inspected the actuator mechanisms and found a surprise: In both cases, the motors are working just fine. Instead, the little red pin that the mechanism pushes against to open the door, is missing (presumably broken off?) on both of them. I repaired one of them by just swapping the good motor over to an assembly with a bad motor I had in the garage. That side is working now, which confirms that the motor has no issues and the problem was just the broken plastic...

Does anyone have a photo of the "little red pin" that erikv11 referred to?