I recently replaced the radiator in my 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo. Except for a lost screw for the fan shroud, it was uneventful. After buttoning everything up, the first time I tried to start the engine, it wouldn't start. It cranked OK, but that was all. When I put the ignition switch in the II position, I noticed the transmission indicator on the dash blinked on and off. Also the Econ/Sport lights on the center console blinked on and off depending on the Econ/Sport switch position. I attempted to check the trouble diagnostic sockets A-1 and A-2. Whenever I inserted the jumper wire into one of those sockets, the red LED light would come on and stay on. I could not get a readout as to what the problem is.
I'm guessing I might not connected all the connectors during the radiator repair, but everything looks good. Or maybe I broke a wire. Any ideas as to where to start looking?
1994 Volvo 850 Turbo - Diagnostic Sockets don't work
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Ozark Lee
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The normal problem is that the LED never responds which is typically due to a broken flywire or dirty switch contacts. In your case all that I can guess is that the switch isn't breaking contact and is stuck on. If you pull the box apart you can likely spot the problem straight away.
Be careful when taking the box apart, there is a spring that will go sailing if you don't take it apart slowly.
...Lee
Be careful when taking the box apart, there is a spring that will go sailing if you don't take it apart slowly.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
The switch contacts seem to be OK, because with the jumper wire (I assume that's what you meant be "flywire") not connected to anything, the LED is off. And when I depress and release the switch, the LED responds on and off as expected. When I connect the wire to A1 or A2, the LED comes on without depressing the switch, although not as bright as when I depress the switch (maybe 50%). When I depress the switch the LED illuminates brighter, but it still doesn't display any codes.
But I will take the box apart as you say and take a look.
But I will take the box apart as you say and take a look.
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