Hi! I'm happy for this sub-forum! As others have stated, the collected knowledge on MVS is incredible!
I bought a 2000 V70 (manufactured 1999) with 330 000 km (about 220 000 miles?). Looked and drove perfectly, with new-looking yellow labeled ETM, so it was not a hard decision to buy it.
However, yesterday the ETS light came on, or rather, it stayed on after start-up.
The car drives normally, no difference before/after ETS light. I drove it 500 km yesterday before the light, it sat and cooled down for six hours and then drove it home with the light on, but no difference in behavior at all. And I'm sensitive about these things, I take good care of cars and I don't generally let problems get out of hand.
No other problems or warning lights. (That I know of).
Should I keep driving until a problem presents itself, or do I go and have codes read? Any harm in driving with ETS light on, as long as it is alone?
I haven't found others with no symptoms AND ETS light, so I would like to believe my car stands out a little bit?
Thank you in advance!
ETS light without symptoms, yellow sticker
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
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I have an ETM in the workshop that drives perfectly yet has an ETS light. Even with a contactless sensor installed correctly it calls a sensor 1 TPS code; I think it's ECM-9150 when read with Vida.
Only one code with no config codes will allow Cruise Control to work as long as it's not too out of range. For example if the sensed voltage from one of the 2 sensors is over the 13% variation limit you may get a Red status meaning no cruise control. It also depends on which software version your car is running. Earlier software versions placed the car in Limp Home mode with only minor sensor variations.
Another reason you can have an ETS light is for a failing brake pedal position sensor which is located on the brake booster. Earlier cars tied this sensor with the ABS unit however ETM equipped cars light the ETS lamp when it fails. Again there will be no symptoms.
A yellow sticker is no guarantee of updated software which was released in 2006. Yellow sticker builds were released as early as 2003.
Only one code with no config codes will allow Cruise Control to work as long as it's not too out of range. For example if the sensed voltage from one of the 2 sensors is over the 13% variation limit you may get a Red status meaning no cruise control. It also depends on which software version your car is running. Earlier software versions placed the car in Limp Home mode with only minor sensor variations.
Another reason you can have an ETS light is for a failing brake pedal position sensor which is located on the brake booster. Earlier cars tied this sensor with the ABS unit however ETM equipped cars light the ETS lamp when it fails. Again there will be no symptoms.
A yellow sticker is no guarantee of updated software which was released in 2006. Yellow sticker builds were released as early as 2003.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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taxi
- Posts: 236
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- Year and Model: V70 2000
- Location: Västerås, Sweden
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Thank you for that!
I still have cruise control, and brake lights. Is the brake pedal switch a "it's working or it's not"-kinda switch?
Since I have to pay for codes I think I'm going to disconnect the battery and see how long the light stays out. And maybe open the air hose to see if it is dirty.
I'll report back soon.
Thank you again!
I still have cruise control, and brake lights. Is the brake pedal switch a "it's working or it's not"-kinda switch?
Since I have to pay for codes I think I'm going to disconnect the battery and see how long the light stays out. And maybe open the air hose to see if it is dirty.
I'll report back soon.
Thank you again!
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taxi
- Posts: 236
- Joined: 16 June 2010
- Year and Model: V70 2000
- Location: Västerås, Sweden
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Uhm.. What do you mean by "only one code can be set with functioning cruise control"? Maybe I'm tired, do you mean that the sensors are not giving the exact same reading, but they are pretty close, so the software allows full functionality, at least for now?
I'm gonna read more about ETM, thank you again!
I'm gonna read more about ETM, thank you again!
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
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You really need to read the car however what you say is correct. One throttle position sensor slightly out from the second combined with later software will allow cruise control and full functionality. All other ETM faults and ABS faults will cut Cruise Control. I only had this phenomenon lately on around my 60th ETM repair.taxi wrote:Uhm.. What do you mean by "only one code can be set with functioning cruise control"? Maybe I'm tired, do you mean that the sensors are not giving the exact same reading, but they are pretty close, so the software allows full functionality, at least for now?
I'm gonna read more about ETM, thank you again!
I did mention that the brake pedal position switch is located on the brake booster. It's not the one which fires the brake light circuit. You'll find it in the engine bay beneath the master cylinder with a 2 pin connector.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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taxi
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- Year and Model: V70 2000
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Bad use of words on my part, I understood the location of the switch, but maybe not the function.
I will examine the switch also, hopefully I will have time for this today. Will be reporting back again!
Thank you!
I will examine the switch also, hopefully I will have time for this today. Will be reporting back again!
Thank you!
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
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There's not much to examine from an external view.
Bleed vacuum from the sytem by pressing the brake pedal repeatedly then flick the stainless steel snap ring away so you can remove the sensor. You then remove the top connector carefully from the tubular body you will see a slender pushrod which passes across a variable resistor board. The connector's solder often fails requiring resoldering to the slender board within.
Bleed vacuum from the sytem by pressing the brake pedal repeatedly then flick the stainless steel snap ring away so you can remove the sensor. You then remove the top connector carefully from the tubular body you will see a slender pushrod which passes across a variable resistor board. The connector's solder often fails requiring resoldering to the slender board within.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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taxi
- Posts: 236
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- Year and Model: V70 2000
- Location: Västerås, Sweden
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Update:
I finally found a shop that could read my car for a humane price, about 65 dollars.
The ETS-codes:
ECM-950F -accelerator pedal position sensor (Edited)
ECM-9520 -same.
Should I feel lucky?
Also, before I had the codes read, I opened up the big rubber air hose to clean the throttle, but it was already clean and shiny! Go figure..
Thank you again, will return after some extensive googling!
I finally found a shop that could read my car for a humane price, about 65 dollars.
The ETS-codes:
ECM-950F -accelerator pedal position sensor (Edited)
ECM-9520 -same.
Should I feel lucky?
Also, before I had the codes read, I opened up the big rubber air hose to clean the throttle, but it was already clean and shiny! Go figure..
Thank you again, will return after some extensive googling!
Last edited by taxi on 26 Jun 2014, 00:27, edited 1 time in total.
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
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That's easy; just repair or replace the pedal sensor 
This is Tasca's current listing & price : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230715293098 ... 1423.l2649
However much cheaper to repair. Volvospeed has an article from an 850 repair on this item
This is Tasca's current listing & price : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230715293098 ... 1423.l2649
However much cheaper to repair. Volvospeed has an article from an 850 repair on this item
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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