1990 240 wagon front hub bearing test/adjust/replace

[edelmatt]

Eh, paralysis by analysis... I just went ahead and whacked it out with a run of the mill hammer. I put an expendable lug nut on the broken one, set it on some concrete (on top of a rag) and it took five hits or so. I don't believe I caused any damage to the hub.

[93Regina]

whacked it out with a run of the mill hammer.

Never done it that way...but, you would place something like a socket on other side so the pressure is exerted on it.

When pressing in, the same way....place hollow socket/pipe on other side.

I suppose a hammer would work, but I use a press.

[edelmatt]

I got my brass punch in the mail and quickly knocked out the inner/outer races from the hubs. I get now why these punches are brass. The brass will deform while the aluminum will not. Cool.

Now just waiting on my new bearing parts and bearing press tools.

As another note, the right disc and hub were rusted together. I set the pair on the ground, drenched in WD40 (through stud holes on the disc), waited an hour, then knocked the hub from the disc. I set a piece of 2x4 over the hub while doing this.

What is recommended to put between the disc and hub to prevent this kind of rusting in the future?

[lummert]

I've removed many a used wheel stud with a big copper hammer and installed on another car. The copper hammer doesn't damage the threads.

[edelmatt]

Should be getting parts/tools today. Something I was unable to put into my FCP Euro order was brake caliper bolts. The manuals say to replace them. Should I be able to find them at an auto supply store?

[93Regina]

The manuals say to replace them

Really; its a good thing I very seldom read manuals. I've never used new bolts...if you like, some Loctite.

Like: Tight Multipurpose Anaerobic Gel Threadlocker / Thread Sealant

[lummert]

The only reason the manual says to replace the bolts is to make them idiot proof.

[edelmatt]

Yes they 'look' fine to me as well. And I can tell they were installed with loctite previously. I'll do the same for now. Next time I order parts I'll get some caliper bolts just for peace of mind, but I won't make it a necessity for this job. Thanks!

[edelmatt]

I got the bearings replaced, and adjusted. I am a little confused on the adjustment because the Bentley manual says to tighten to 41 ft-lb then loosen 1/2 turn. Meanwhile the Haynes manual says to tighten to 50 ft-lb and loosen 1/3 turn. I tried the Bentley method and the wheel spun quite freely. Then with the Haynes method, I could get about 2.5 - 3 turns out of the wheel (i.e. more stiff). I settled on the Haynes method as it seemed that the wheels shouldn't spin that freely.

When I put in the cotter pins, I left the backside of the cotter pin sticking up. I did not fit them flush with the castellated nuts. But after a test drive of about four miles, the grease caps on both sides were quite hot to the touch. I didn't feel them with the old bearings, so I don't know how hot they were getting before. But I was alarmed by the heat and assume it indicates that either the cotter pins should have been fitted flush to the nut (so grease/pin friction didn't create all that heat) or the bearing adjustment is too snug. What do you guys think?

[93Regina]

guys think?

Purpose of using 50 foot pounds or so is to make sure races are seated.

But, there should be no more than say 6 INCH POUNDS on caster nut when done.

So, after doing the 50 foot pound, back it off until your fingers can turn the caster nut; then back off caster nut until no tension exist with your fingers, then with your fingers, snugly seat caster nut, and insert cotter pin.

Grabbing the wheel on top/bottom, there should be no bearing free play when rocked back/forth.

On a test drive, there should be no heat.