2001 volvo s60 t5 sputtering, cutting out, p1238

hmarkhierro · Post by **hmarkhierro** » 02 Jul 2014, 11:55

Hello my volvo s60 has been giving me trouble since i bought it. This is my problem i am having, First it started out after a long drive, i would get off the freeway and i would let go of the gas and it would pull back like i am down shifting into a low gear, and there was no power. after it start to get worse it started to sputter and the check engine light came on for p1238, and p0121. So i was like dang i am going to have to replace throttle body, but i found a cheap fix to just replace the tps sensor, so i did. Put it back on the same night stated it up was sputtering really bad so i said i am going to have to put a new throttle body on witch i dont have money for. So the next morning i went out and started it it started rite up, So i was like this is weird i drove it and i thought it probabley just had to sit. So that same day i went to drive it to my familys house a hour away, i got stuck in some traffic half way there it started to sputter and no power i was what the heck stupid junk. so i got it to my famils and i checked the code they were the same codes erased the codes started the car and the car idled normal again. well when i firs started it up after erasing the codes it reved up a couple of times and then idled out. so i took it down the street start sputtering again. so i was researching and seen that they said it could be the maf so i went out and unplugged it the car kept on running. i was like need a new maf ordered a cheap maf online thru ebay finally got it put it on and it ran worse then the old one started it up sputtered and then shut off. and i was like what could it be then so i researched the p1238 and it was the turbo control valve so i went out and while the car was on i unplugged it and it did nothing the car kept on running. so here are my wuestion do you know what is wrong with it do i need to get another maf sensor, why does the car act normal after i reset the codes, and could it be the turbo control valve. I just want to fix it to sell it

Post by **abscate** » 02 Jul 2014, 12:50

Executive summary, stumbling and stalling when warm

If the car is running poorly, you can't trust codes that come as diagnostics, they are probably spurious codes from multiple system compromises.

These cars need OEM MAFs, cheap parts are worse than worthless. Unplug the MAFS and drive it around for a few days and see if the stalling stops before throwing more parts at it.

hmarkhierro · Post by **hmarkhierro** » 02 Jul 2014, 16:25

Well when i put the new part on i had to unplug it to get it home. But this morning i had the old one in and i unplugged it it stummbled and then it idled but when i plugged it back in it start to idle really bad. I think it is the maf sensor so i am going to the pick a part and get a maf on another car.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Jul 2014, 17:15

Look for a wrecked one where the MAF is probably good.

Post by **oragex** » 02 Jul 2014, 20:15

the fuel pressure sensor acts like that and is prone to fail

hmarkhierro · Post by **hmarkhierro** » 02 Jul 2014, 22:08

well i am wandering why is it when i clear the codes the, when i start it it reves to 1800 rpms and acts normal after that. and when i drive it it i keep my foot on the gas so it dont idle because after a while driving it will idle and then act like it is going to stall. and then start to mess up.