I have a similar setup on my 85 240 and had to remove all the mounting bolts from the bushings and slacken then long 10mm bolt thingo to get everything loose enough to move the assembly towards the engine enough to get the belt off.
Hope that helps!
a/c compressor belt removal
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Retired MVS Contributor
Dickdeadly:
The lines to the compressor are rubber hoses, but they have bent metal tubing attached at the ends where they connet to the compressor...When the connections are being made, the tube can be swivelled one way or the other quite a bit before the "B" nut on the tube is tightened...You could loosen the nuts and swivel the pipes, but if you do you will lose the system refrigerant charge...It looks like you either have to do that, or dismount the whole compressor...I, myself, would dismount the compressor, but you have to make your own decisions...Sorry, and good luck...
The lines to the compressor are rubber hoses, but they have bent metal tubing attached at the ends where they connet to the compressor...When the connections are being made, the tube can be swivelled one way or the other quite a bit before the "B" nut on the tube is tightened...You could loosen the nuts and swivel the pipes, but if you do you will lose the system refrigerant charge...It looks like you either have to do that, or dismount the whole compressor...I, myself, would dismount the compressor, but you have to make your own decisions...Sorry, and good luck...
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rgk
- Posts: 257
- Joined: 16 March 2009
- Year and Model: Gray 88 245
- Location: Yellowstone
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 1 time
Bill,
A thousand thanks and a hundred days of health and good cheer to your and your kin! The wrench-on-crankshaft method worked like a charm! I barely had to use a screwdriver!
Just one thing, however: I replaced three belts: the a/c compressor belt, and the two alternator/fan belts. The new belts are tighter than the old ones, especially the alt/fan belts. They have brought the pulley much closer to the engine, to the point where during driving the pulley bore a slight groove into a thick portion of the accessory. It seems to have reached its furthest point. It does not seem to have compromised its integrity.
Just for your information.
A thousand thanks and a hundred days of health and good cheer to your and your kin! The wrench-on-crankshaft method worked like a charm! I barely had to use a screwdriver!
Just one thing, however: I replaced three belts: the a/c compressor belt, and the two alternator/fan belts. The new belts are tighter than the old ones, especially the alt/fan belts. They have brought the pulley much closer to the engine, to the point where during driving the pulley bore a slight groove into a thick portion of the accessory. It seems to have reached its furthest point. It does not seem to have compromised its integrity.
Just for your information.
rgk -- was dickdeadly
I'm having trouble seeing the adjuster nuts on my alternator for the alternator belts. I have a 242DL 1984.
There is one nut on the front below the alternator and one above - nothing that looks like and adjuster? Thanks
There is one nut on the front below the alternator and one above - nothing that looks like and adjuster? Thanks
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Faithraven
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 4 August 2014
- Year and Model: 245 DL wagon 1980
- Location: Hoquiam Washington
I see some have posted the screw driver method... On an adjustable bracket style, I have also gotten the belt just started over the top of the pulley, (Don't leave the screw driver in!!)... then I would disconnect the coil wire and bump the engine over just a touch... 9 out of ten times, it would rotate right on.
"I have also been known to break loose the harmonic balance pulley nut in a similar way... I would brace a breaker bar and socket using a couple 2x4's with the handle in the 3-5 o'clock position and, with the coil wire removed to prevent starting, bump the engine over as well. DON'T FORGET SAFETY!!
"I have also been known to break loose the harmonic balance pulley nut in a similar way... I would brace a breaker bar and socket using a couple 2x4's with the handle in the 3-5 o'clock position and, with the coil wire removed to prevent starting, bump the engine over as well. DON'T FORGET SAFETY!!
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93Regina
- Posts: 2813
- Joined: 18 January 2014
- Year and Model: 93:240/940
- Location: Sunflower State
- Been thanked: 65 times
No, No, No...no VW belt flipping...El-Jerk-O needs head examined...Twerps, with no mechanical respect for equipment!Faithraven wrote:I see some have posted the screw driver method...
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Snagbranch
- Posts: 0
- Joined: 9 June 2013
- Year and Model: 2002
- Location: Jordan station
Bill had the right answer!
I messed around with the ac compressor belt for about an hour - couldn't get it loose enough like everyone else.
I used Bill's recommendation to turn the crank pulley with a 24mm socket while I guided the belt off with a screwdriver. Off it came.
Putting the new belt back on was even easier. I didn't even have to use a screw driver. Just guided it back on with my hand, while turning the crank.
Hey, has anyone ever seen the video of the guy changing belts on a VW bug while the engine was running? Whoa!
I messed around with the ac compressor belt for about an hour - couldn't get it loose enough like everyone else.
I used Bill's recommendation to turn the crank pulley with a 24mm socket while I guided the belt off with a screwdriver. Off it came.
Putting the new belt back on was even easier. I didn't even have to use a screw driver. Just guided it back on with my hand, while turning the crank.
Hey, has anyone ever seen the video of the guy changing belts on a VW bug while the engine was running? Whoa!
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