1998 S70 T5 Low Compression after stall, will not retart

greasefingerss · Post by **greasefingerss** » 28 Jan 2007, 07:41

You have spark and fuel so I think you can eliminate the ECU and the cam & crank sensors as the culprit. I am a newbie with Volvos but this is my 2 cents: I think either the timing is way off or the fuel pump is delivering low fuel pressure.

Is there a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail? The pressure should be just above 40 psi.

You have not removed the distributor have you? The reason I ask is, if it was placed back in wrong then it would fire a spark at the wrong time interval.

Get that puppy started today

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 28 Jan 2007, 18:13

Drum Roll please.

I was putting the car back together getting it ready for the tow to the dealer. As I was preparing to install the timing belt cover, I thought I would check the marks one last time. The camshaft marks were dead on as I was saying throughout this post. But as I looked at the crankshaft pulley mark it was dead on to a bolt that I thought was the mark. I believe the mark is a verticle ripple about a fourth of an inch long below a tensioner pulley. Am I correct ? . I can barely see anything down there. Had to use a mirror. If this is the mark it means I'm about 4 teeth off at the crankshaft.

This is a rookie mistake. I have been working on Jets for 23 years now and I'm quite embarassed to have missed this. Pfeener, MIJ and greasefingerss made mention of this others may have also throughout this 40+ posts topic. I'm also relieved. I will leave with 3 questions.
1. Is this the crankshaft pulley mark I described?
2. What caused this to happen, tensioner?
3. The belt was change 10k miles ago along with the waterpump should, I replace it and the tensioner?
Please respond
and thanks again guys for all your patience.
Tri

greasefingerss · Post by **greasefingerss** » 28 Jan 2007, 18:26

I cannot really help as I have only owned my 850 for eight days now. But I am interested in your question about the crankshaft marks, as I will be replacing the timing belt as soon as I get my parts delivered.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Jan 2007, 18:56

Drum Roll please.

I was putting the car back together getting it ready for the tow to the dealer. As I was preparing to install the timing belt cover, I thought I would check the marks one last time. The camshaft marks were dead on as I was saying throughout this post. But as I looked at the crankshaft pulley mark it was dead on to a bolt that I thought was the mark. I believe the mark is a verticle ripple about a fourth of an inch long below a tensioner pulley. Am I correct ? . I can barely see anything down there. Had to use a mirror. If this is the mark it means I'm about 4 teeth off at the crankshaft.

This is a rookie mistake. I have been working on Jets for 23 years now and I'm quite embarassed to have missed this. Pfeener, MIJ and greasefingerss made mention of this others may have also throughout this 40+ posts topic. I'm also relieved. I will leave with 3 questions.
1. Is this the crankshaft pulley mark I described?
2. What caused this to happen, tensioner?
3. The belt was change 10k miles ago along with the waterpump should, I replace it and the tensioner?
Please respond
and thanks again guys for all your patience.
Tri

The timing mark on the crankshaft is microscopic but it is there and it is as you describe it. It should be the only abberation on the pulley. I wish I had a picture but I don't.

Before you punt and call the tow truck try to line everything back up with the marks.

I hate tow trucks.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jan 2007, 18:58

Since Ozark didn't have the picture, I'll provide it. Taking the tensioner off often allows the camshaft to shift back a few teeth- this is a common issue. I'm not sure about alignment points from underneath. I've gone with this:

If everything was done 10K miles ago, I would reuse the belt and just check the water pump for leaks. The following link has some information on how to deal with a one-tooth-off belt...in your case you might have to do it 3 or 4 times. http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt3.php
It could be your tensioner is not any good, thus the teeth are off??

Post by **pfeener** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:01

OK, now we're getting somewhere. This makes sense. First off, do not put the car back in time and start it up. If it jumped teeth it could do it again and it sounds like you've just barely dodged this bullet (the pistons hitting and bending valves bullet) as it is.

Yes the vertical mark on the the block in the timing mark (should be at the 12 o'clock position to the top of the crank pulley). On the crank pulley you will find two very small (sometimes you can't see them, but you can feel them with a thumbnail) scribe marks on the back edge of the crank pulley. The two marks go on either side of the mark on the block.

Yes, if it were me I would replace the belt and the tensioner. Which tensioner do you have? 98 was a split year with the earlier models having the hydraulic tensioner and the later models with the mechanical tensioner. Make sure you only rotate the crankshaft clockwise, looking at it from the RH side of the car, when lining up the timing marks. If you try to rotate it the counter-clockwise the belt will loosen.

My guess is you have the hydraulic tensioner and it sprung a leak and the oil is gone. It should have a white clip installed at the top of the tensioner to maintain enough tension on the belt to keep it from jumping teeth if this happens, but I'll guess the last time it was changed the clip was not replaced.

Answer back if you need help with the belt and tell us which tensioner you have. Also the belts are different lengths for the different tensioners.

Post by **pfeener** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:16

Here's a post with a picture of the timing marks on the crank pulley. One other thing; when you put this back in time; set the cams on their marks and remove the belt and rotate the crank (either CW or CCW) back to it's timing mark. It only has to be rotated CC when the belt is installed. Don't try and rotate the crank very far with the belt off. You have valves that are open and the pistons will hit on them if you rotate the crank very far.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... iming+mark

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:35

pfeener, I'm learning something here too. Never really done the TB by myself. Somehow I had missed the lower crank pulley. I guess my mechanic knew about this on our 850 when he did that and I assisted, but all I remembered were the two top marks. This is good because I have the TB coming up in the next 3500 miles and am thinking of doing it myself.

Post by **pfeener** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:45

MIJ; you should do it yourself. It just isn't that hard. I have a 98 S70 as well and I usually remove the vibration damper when I change the TB. It takes a little longer but it makes it go so much easier. Do you have a hydraulic or mechanical tensioner?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jan 2007, 19:51

Mine is hydraulic...Yeah, from what I have read it shouldn't be that hard at all, especially since it's the second one on this car, I won't even have to compress the tensioner- it comes with a pin in it from what I understand!