2000 V70xc Loss of power and/or stall

[timmybdaddyof3]

1 - an open PCV system can cause drivability issues.
2 - did you mechanic give your fuel pressure readings as well?

[zinman]

He said all injectors were full function, and all coils were normal; no measurement as far as psi or anything.
Very interesting. I got nearly stranded today, just posted a new topic. It ran great until this evening.
This time it died out and I got the flashing yellow arrow. My PCV system is most definitely open. But the arrow...? I was able to get it started and drive home.

[abscate]

an open vacuum system on a mass airflow metered car will screw up the metering and cause all sorts of havoc under the right driving conditions. Get that leak/hose fixed, clear codes and see how it drives then.

[timmybdaddyof3]

^^x2
Also, check the fuel pressure, it seems odd that a mechanic would disclose checking the wave pattern, ohm out injectors and not disclose fuel rail pressure.

then again, last week I got a car in with receipts from 3 shops over the last 2 weeks for overheating...place 1 new radiator, place 2 new water pump, place 3 new thermostat....my shop, new cap...customer claimed if you let it idle for 20 mins it would overheat....it sat running in my driveway for an hour on a 100* day. Not even going to share my thoughts on this one

[zinman]

Here is an update: Replaced PCV system including the part that connects with the banjo bolts, new fresh air intake to turbo with PTC nipple, new vacuum lines from turbo control valve (on IPD turbo control valve). I had my injectors cleaned by Mr. Injector of Idaho, so new o rings and filters and pintle caps. I replaced some suspect vacuum hose. I removed the throttle body to get better access to the left lower bolt on the intake manifold, so cleaned throttle body, new intake gasket and throttle body gasket. Did an oil change with full synthetic and topped off the coolant that spilled during the PCV replacement.

The only parts to replace yet are my fuel filter, which may be the original, and a washable air filter due to arrive in a couple days. I entered the radio code, then started it to see if what would happen. It idled but seemed kind of hesitant. It idled for about five minutes. Then it died and would not restart.

In addition to the above repairs just did new coils and spark plugs, too. All parts were genuine Volvo except coils, but were German, and the turbo control valve.

I'll try again after the fuel filter, but I think I can rule out an open PCV related problem. No check engine light while it idled. I also removed the fuel pump relay and inspected the guts. It looked pristine to me but I suppose the capacitors could be bad and not look bad.

Does anyone have an idea what else I might look at/for?

[zinman]

Time to post an update. There is no change in conditions after PCV replacement and I replaced all the PCV components including the piece with the banjo bolts and a new air intake hose that has the PTC nipple and goes to the turbo. Part of the plastic cracked off under the screw clamp and I wanted to rule out a possible leak there.

I replaced a couple vacuum hoses that felt like they were becoming brittle and put on color coded silicone hoses from the turbo control valve to their corresponding locations on the turbo and plastic intake pipe.

My fuel injectors were cleaned ultrasonically and fitted with new filters, o rings and pintle caps.

I cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold and put in new gaskets.

I did an oil change with full synthetic and a new filter.

Reconnected battery and started the car. It idled with a hesitation for about five minutes then stalled and would not restart. It was never taken out of park when it was running.

I have the fuel filter to replace. I could only find Chinese-made aftermarket fuel filters locally, so I ordered one online and it should be here today. I hope this could be the problem. I have never changed the fuel filter and doubt the previous owner ever did, so it may be the original. I suppose I should pick up a fuel pressure gauge as well and see what that says before and after the filter change, if I can get it started one more time.

If the fuel filter doesn't work, what then? No trouble lights were illuminated while the car ran for those five minutes. That's why I keep thinking it has to have some fuel delivery issue.





















The battery was reconnected and the car was started. It ran with hesitation for maybe five minutes, stalled and then would not restart

[zinman]

Here is my update.

I completely replaced the leaky PCV system, even the complicated part with the banjo bolts.

The list of new parts is this: PCV system, new fresh air intake (old one cracked at turbo inlet), new MAF sensor, new ignition coils, spark plugs, new o ring seals beneath coils, new oil filler cap gasket to keep oil from blowing out, turbo control valve + new corresponding colored vacuum hoses to this part,new vacuum hose on suspect sections, ultrasonically cleaned fuel injectors with new filters, o rings, and pintle caps, new K & N air filter, new fuel filter, fresh oil/ filter change (full synthetic). I put new gaskets on the intake manifold and throttle body after I removed and cleaned them.

Last week I finished all repairs except the new fuel filter. I started the car after the battery hook up and radio code was entered. It ran with a hesitation then stalled after 5 minutes and would not restart.
I thought it might be a good idea to change the fuel filter.

I did the fuel filter today. Plenty of clear gas drained on the side toward the engine and I lost hope that it might be a clogged filter. This was justified as it did the exact same thing, though without the hesitation. It ran for maybe 5 minutes, stalled and would not restart. I was in the house, putting tools away when it stalled, so I don't know how it behaved then, but it would crank fine, but not turn over.

Just in case it was the PNP sensor, I put it in reverse and went around the back to see if the backing lights were on. They were.

What do I do now? I'd like to have the car to drive myself to work soon. It's mid October and I'm in Minnesota. Winter can conceivably come any time now. I'd like to do the work before it gets too cold for my hands to function. Could it still be something like a fuel pump relay? I inspected it, and it looked fine, visually. Should I just spend the 50 dollars for a new one and see?

[zinman]

Apologies for the above redundant posts. Didn't know they were posted so I kept repeating myself.

Anyway, the problem I was experiencing ended up being the fuel pump relay.

I let the car stall after the usual 5 minutes of running, paying close attention, and it died as though it just ran out of gas. I bypassed the relay with 14 gauge wire, ends stripped and flattened in a bench vise, then started the car. It ran for 30 minutes with no problems.

Ordered a new relay and installed it today. Car is running as well as ever.

My sincere thanks to all who responded and to this terrific resource, MVS, for saving me again.