2002 S60 Out of hibernation

Mykle57 · Post by **Mykle57** » 23 Nov 2014, 19:20

Hi folks,
New poster here. I hauled my dads S60 our of the garage where it's been sitting unused for the past 2 or 3 years. (He's a bit older and hasn't been able to drive for a while and recently came to the conclusion that he won't be driving any longer). I'm planning to get it running, clean it up and put it up for sale. Today the weather was nice enough to be able to scrub off a couple of years of dust and put on a coat of wax. It looks pretty good now.

First order of business, It won't start even with a jump. I've had the battery on a charger for a day now and all I'm getting is a clicking noise from the solenoid. Starter doesn't engage and the engine doesn't turn over. I'm thinking it needs a new battery. (Tomorrow, I'll take some measurements on the battery to be sure). Opinions? Is there anything special about a Volvo battery? Or would a diehard just as good?

After getting it started, I'll be looking to drain the old fuel out and change the engine oil & filter. What viscosity should I be using for winter?

Post by **precopster** » 24 Nov 2014, 01:45

You may have some rust in the cylinders. Try to turn the crank clockwise using the 30mm crank bolt with a large adjusting spanner by hand.

You can gain access to the 10mm plastic nut which is part ofva folding cover by removing the passenger wheel.

Post by **oragex** » 24 Nov 2014, 06:17

If it doesn't turn the engine at all, there is either not enough power at the battery (most probable), or the starter/pistons had seized. How did you jumped it? Put the ignition key in position II (to be safe, some had electrical troubles after trying to jump the battery) and jump the battery from a running engine right at the battery terminals (both + and -). Careful with the jump cables not to touch them together or touch some metal

Mykle57 · Post by **Mykle57** » 24 Nov 2014, 06:40

Thanks precopster,
That's what I was trying to figure out. How to manually crank the engine. I couldn't figure out how I was going to reach that bolt from the top and even if I could, I'd still need to guess the blot size.

So, I need to remove the front passenger wheel and look for an access panel which will allow me to reach the bolt on the crankshaft pulley?

(Tough thing about this time of year, it's pitch dark by the time I get home. Might need to wait until the weekend).

draser · Post by **draser** » 24 Nov 2014, 06:47

Diehard with similar cca or more should work. I'd pull the plugs and put a few droplets of oil in cyl before trying to rotate by hand as said. If you can pump out old gas as much as possible and put new gas in that much better.

Mykle57 · Post by **Mykle57** » 25 Nov 2014, 16:50

Thanks All,
A couple unseasonable warm days over here. Got the car jacked up and found that access cover (I would have never found that). Turned over nicely, compression seemed adequate. Although the front brakes didn't look that good. Adding those to the to do list

Charging the battery for a couple of days and letting it sit overnight showed it was only good as a doorstop. New sears DieHard installed, it cranked and started right up.

Fuel gauge shows empty (with the light on). Maybe I won't need to drain the old fuel. (Then again, maybe the gauge is broken). Dumped 5 gal of fresh gas and it registered on the gauge Yaa!

The perform Service light is also on. What's normally involved in a Volvo service? Is there a way to reset that (without donating 500 bucks to an authorized Volvo dealer)?

Next up, fluid changes. What viscosity oil should I be using for winter months? And what's the capacity?
Oh, and what are good jacking points for this car?

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'01 C320, '00 ML430, '77 911s, '57 356a and an unloved S60