Hello all you volvo lovers!!!
I own a 98 volvo v70 r, I have read the ultimate Pcv fix so I know the correct way to go about fixing positive crankcase pressure. I am interested in quick fixes though to get me through the next couple months when I have time, money, and a space to do the work myself. I recently bought the car and the owner said it had no leaks, I drove it about 200 miles to my house where it sat for 2 weeks. When I came home there was a big puddle of oil in the front of the engine near some radiator hoses and a small puddle in the rear of the engine under the power steering rack area. I believe I have blown some cam seals. I have put my hand by the dipstick hole and can feel air coming out of the dipstick. To the best of my knowledge the head gasket is fine and the coolant has no il in it.
Hear are my questions...
1) If I throw in new seals what are the chances they or other seals will blowout within 3000 miles of driving
2) Can I just loosen the oil cap or create a snorkel system to help mitigate that extra pressure in the mean time? (If so how?)
3) Last when I actually do the pcv repair will I need a new oil box thing or do I need to just clean the system and the hoses out. If I drill the hole and switch to 5/8th inch hose and clean all my components out will I be fine? Could I just switch the hose out and that will fix the problem?
In conclusion tell em the easiest quickest solution haha! Thnaks for bearing with me!!
1998 v70r PCV/Blown Seals
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Ozark Lee
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The best way to deal with the repair is to simply replace the parts with new. You can try to clean the trap but it is relatively cheap and you can never really be sure it is indeed clean. The hoses tend to be very brittle and there is a good chance you will break them getting them disconnected.
You need to make sure that the passage from the hole next to the oil trap through the face of the block down to the sump is clean and you also need to make sure the PTC nipple is clear.
As far as a short term time buyer you might be able to get by without blowing any more seals if you leave the dipstick loose. If the PCV is horribly clogged it might spew oil out the dipstick tube though so keep an eye on it.
Whatever you do don't buy URO branded parts. The hoses simply don't last and you will be doing the job over again in a matter of months.
...Lee
You need to make sure that the passage from the hole next to the oil trap through the face of the block down to the sump is clean and you also need to make sure the PTC nipple is clear.
As far as a short term time buyer you might be able to get by without blowing any more seals if you leave the dipstick loose. If the PCV is horribly clogged it might spew oil out the dipstick tube though so keep an eye on it.
Whatever you do don't buy URO branded parts. The hoses simply don't last and you will be doing the job over again in a matter of months.
...Lee
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- dosbricks
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Welcome to the forum, Jcub.
Lee got his reply up first, but here is my 2 cents also....
1) If you replace seals before doing the PCV repair, you risk blowing the new seals you installed, or worse yet, blowing out the dreaded rear main seal which requires separating the trans from the engine to replace a $30 seal.
2)Loosening the filler cap will cause oil to leak all over the cam cover and possibly get into the spark plug wells. As a short term fix, pull the dipstick out about 3.5cm and secure it so the blow-by pressure can relieve that way. Check it periodically to see that you are not loosing oil there.
3)The oil separator box is cheap--replace it. It needs to be removed to make sure the oil return port in the side of the crankcase is completely clear. While it is off, attach a 1/2" hose to the nipple on the side of the crankcase and blow through the hose and listen for air bubbling up through the oil in the sump to make sure the passageway for the return is clear inside the crankcase/sump.
Good luck.
Lee got his reply up first, but here is my 2 cents also....
1) If you replace seals before doing the PCV repair, you risk blowing the new seals you installed, or worse yet, blowing out the dreaded rear main seal which requires separating the trans from the engine to replace a $30 seal.
2)Loosening the filler cap will cause oil to leak all over the cam cover and possibly get into the spark plug wells. As a short term fix, pull the dipstick out about 3.5cm and secure it so the blow-by pressure can relieve that way. Check it periodically to see that you are not loosing oil there.
3)The oil separator box is cheap--replace it. It needs to be removed to make sure the oil return port in the side of the crankcase is completely clear. While it is off, attach a 1/2" hose to the nipple on the side of the crankcase and blow through the hose and listen for air bubbling up through the oil in the sump to make sure the passageway for the return is clear inside the crankcase/sump.
Good luck.
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'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
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- rspi
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Contact:
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j-dawg
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Drill a hole in the oil filler cap (take it off the engine first!), JB Weld a hose barb in there, and run a clear vinyl hose from that into a bottle zip-tied to something rigid.
Not an environmentally-friendly solution, but at least you won't vomit oil all over your engine bay. You can replace the filler cap when you properly replace the rest of the system.
Come to think of it, I'm actually not sure this will relieve pressure everywhere, but it's the equivalent of loosening your filler cap and should help you not blow out cam seals.
Not an environmentally-friendly solution, but at least you won't vomit oil all over your engine bay. You can replace the filler cap when you properly replace the rest of the system.
Come to think of it, I'm actually not sure this will relieve pressure everywhere, but it's the equivalent of loosening your filler cap and should help you not blow out cam seals.
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- erikv11
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I'll differ on some of this: Cleaning the oil trap is just fine, but you must make sure you get it clean. It is just a hollow plastic box (ok, with a short baffle). Also, the trap itself doesn't need to be Volvo branded, any brand will do just fine, there is no history of anyone having trouble with an aftermarket oil trap. Hoses are a another story.
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gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
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gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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cn90
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1+,
* Re-use the Oil Trap, that thing lasts some 20 years +. The basic minimum is to clean the inside, rinse it then re-use it.
* The thread below talked about the 5/8-inch heater hose as the vent hose:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53448
* Re-use the Oil Trap, that thing lasts some 20 years +. The basic minimum is to clean the inside, rinse it then re-use it.
* The thread below talked about the 5/8-inch heater hose as the vent hose:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53448
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rmmagow
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When you pull out the dipstick a little, wrap the area with some tin foil. Not super tight as you want the pressure to be released. This will help mitigate a mess if oil is spewed forth for this temp fix.
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1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
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