1997 850 Problems after Change to Synthetic Oil

[rspi]

... maybe a PCV system in need of overhaul.

Not sure why this is still a "maybe". The test is simple. Is the PCV system clogged or not?

I always recommend people make sure their PCV system is in good working order prior to switching to full synthetic oil. I switched at 188,600 and have not had a leak, now at 271,400 (miles). However, I did service my PCV prior to the switch.



A video that ever 850 owner should watch...

[rspi]

[precopster]

If you want to buy some time before you perform the PCV service:

a) Purchase some basic tools for the job
b) Digest all the infornation about PCV systems and finally work up the courage to attack the problem
c) Purchase 2 X new Genuine Volvo cam seals from a dealer or independant (not aftermarket such as Elring)

Remove the distributor from the head with 3 X 8mm headed screws and then remove the rotor button with a 3mm allen key then remove the 10mm bolt securing the drive plate to the camshaft.

Sight the seal. Chances are it will have totally popped out from the engine. Replace with a new original cam seal then seat back in evenly. Push the new cam seal back so the friction lip of the seal is on the wear mark that the old seal left behind.

Some people purchase a pick tool to help grab the old cam seal and others drive a self tapper into the metal edge of the old seal. Either way don't damage the surface of the head and remove any metal filings left behind.

Once the new cam seal is fitted rig up some zip ties on the dipstick so it stays over the dipstick hole bit doesn't seal properly.

This will relieve pressure on the crankcase system until the PCV repair.

[instarx]

precopster pretty much said it all. I doubt the synthetic actually caused a problem - it merely identified an upcoming bigger problem (but that's just my opinion - precopster is the expert). Most of the "synthetics ruined my car" posts are just as he said - anecdotal.

A couple of points:
- you can get synthetics specifically made for high mileage engines with old seals.
- you are just fine with conventional oil if you are going to keep changing it at 4K. Changing synthetics every 4k is simply wasteful in my opinion.

[abscate]

I am not technically a car mechanic and maybe have little business being here

I'm 100% comfortable speaking for Matt, the forum owner, by saying that this is forum is MADE for the the non-mechanic....all are welcome here.

I've switched the 99 T5, the 2005 V70 , the 2003 beetle, and 2002 Eurovan all to synthetic in the past 3 years. No runs, leaks, or squeaks. Synthetic helped solve a nasty sludge problem in my Beetle too, by the way, saving me a kilo buck of engine work.

[tryingbe]

So an almost clogged PCV couldn't end up 'physically' plugged up after a change to synthetic?

This take time.




I change cam seals/crank seals everytime I'm doing a timing belt, with Volvo seals only. *Volvo seals have longer lips than non volvo seals, found out the hard way.

[oragex]

I don't think switching to synthetic caused the non start condition. What a synthetic could do to an older car, would be dislodging sludge and blocking some oil channel. Also clog the oil filter quicker because of dislodged debris.

More rarely it will dislodge a clog that was keeping an already broken seal from leaking.

I would carefully weight whether to go back to the mentioned mechanic or not. Just by your description, I just have the feeling he is more or less useful in your situation.

[plumsmooth]

I want to say thank you I can not believe how helpful everyone has been. And I think the answer to my original question is Yes... A quick change to Synthetic after 130,000 could indeed push an already clogged pcv system over the edge and lead to leaking and blown seals. Notice how I didn't actually blame the Synthetic Oil here -- ha ha.

My initial confusion in answering this question was my ignorance in thinking the Pcv system only processed gases. Today I will try to further educate myself. I also read about a Vented Oil Filler Cap temporary solution to crankcase pressure?

Luckily I do not depend on my Volvo to commute to work I live in a small town and work at an artist retreat center whereby I can walk to work. However I have been doing transportation runs to the airport as a side job but I have nothing booked for a month so I have time to figure this out. However after an unnecessary 350 dollars and a new problem stirred up I have limited funds available and could basically scrape together the PCV job and that's about it for now. So I really hope that that alone would solve the rough transition to synthetic! and prevent any further seals from blowing -- namely of course the dreaded RMS. I do have an import specialist shop a town over that I could walk home from if I had to. They charge a little more money but I'm 99% positive they have done the PCV kit before. They probably wouldn't like it if I bought my own parts and am guessing they might charge over 700 for the job which is my current limit right now.

I think my usually mechanic down the street will at least put the Cam seal in for me with a little sympathy since I just got a full tune up for 350 --and now the problem is worse i.e. a puddle of oil and what-i-believe-to-be a completely blown rear cam seal!

The two dipstick ideas I received [thanks again] are: popped up with a rag over it and secured. The other was zip ties -- not sure where they would go. I'm about ready to drill my engine oil cap and modify my own vented oil cap? Could I do that or would oil flow out the top all over my engine?

P.S. I do own the Hanes manual and I plan to figure out the basic starter tool set for Do-it-oneself after I resolve this current situation. And I guess if I make it through it and still have a car then maybe I should just stay synthetic after all this is solved? Thanks again for this Volvo Therapy session signing off...

[cn90]

Couple things:

1. For now: the dipstick can be lifted up a few mm, wrapped loosely with rag and zip tie it. Don't wash the engine during this time!

2. PCV using heater hose. Take your time to read through this. Or whatever shop doing this can read this thread:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53448

3. Then REAR cam seals using either Volvo OEM seals (expensive) vs SKF:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=50752

If you DIY, then it is very cheap. Most of the cost is in labor.

Don't drill your oil filler cap, no need to do that.

PS: The photo above...is it from your car?

[plumsmooth]

Are there any other possible reasons for this Cam Seal Blow out -- another side effect of an unthoughtful change to Synthetic?

If I perform the basic Glove on Oil filler port PCV test and it comes up positive can I be reasonably sure this is what happened. I'm worried because of limited funds.

And, because I am concerned about other seals that I would not be able to afford: is there much of a change that if sufficient pcv pressure was already present that it could have already damaged another seal like RMS?

Thanks for putting up with me; I don't want to abuse anyones time...