SAS removal walkthrough(No CEL!)

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 09 Dec 2013, 01:19

are u sure its the code for SAS and not a code for EVAP?

Post by **erikv11** » 09 Dec 2013, 07:37

Check the resistance on the diode, sometimes they get cooked during the soldering process.

Post by **rspi** » 09 Dec 2013, 08:08

My daughter just got this code on her S70. My guess is that he pump got water in it and froze.

randallroot89 · Post by **randallroot89** » 09 Dec 2013, 09:41

I know i didnt fry the diode, i rebuild electronics all the time. I ran the OBD again this morning and now it says no codes but the check engine light is still on. I DROVE 200+ miles after putting the diode in place and the light never came on till i was warming the car up yesterday. It came on during idle. I also cleared the sas code after diode insertion. With the light on and no codes im really confused

Post by **erikv11** » 09 Dec 2013, 12:10

Some code readers can't read all codes, could that be it? Some TCM codes will set a CEL.

The SAS light will always take a couple hundred miles to come on, FWIW. You probably already checked but it diode polarity right?

But I suspect the CEL problem is not the diode, it is basically foolproof when done properly and you seem to know your way around a soldering iron. Is the ECU seated properly?

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 26 Apr 2015, 08:17

If you do this job and you need to buy a Soldering Iron, make sure you buy something stronger than 30 watts and 700 Degrees. You will eventually need that soldering iron for the ABS module and the soldering iron I bought for this job didn't cut it for the ABS job.

msb3000 · Post by **msb3000** » 23 Apr 2016, 05:41

I am curious if you can just put something on the plug at the pump motor to make it think it is running?

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Apr 2016, 07:29

The ECU doesn't check the pump directly, it checks the relay and the solenoid (which you leave in place in this procedure), and it checks the O2 sensor voltage to see if it drops as occurs when the air pump is working properly (the diode provides the small voltage drop to the proper ECU pins). The basic theory (but not the completely figured out modification) is here: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/132158-sas-delete/

People have dropped in a resistor in place of the solenoid, your idea works for that. But the solenoid is pretty small, not a huge gain there.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Apr 2016, 06:37

charleskennedy23 wrote:If you do this job and you need to buy a Soldering Iron, make sure you buy something stronger than 30 watts and 700 Degrees. You will eventually need that soldering iron for the ABS module and the soldering iron I bought for this job didn't cut it for the ABS job.

Buy the time you buy the Drexel and the soldering iron you will have spent more that mattymoo will sell you a tested good unit...not to mention about 80% of people can't solder an ABS successfully and repeat the job.

Kudos to those of you who can.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 24 Apr 2016, 14:25

Excellent point...