2000 V70R - Now it begins -Rear AWD sub-frame replacement

[scot850]

Well, quick update. I have another post where I asked about how to disconnect the fuel pipe at the back of the engine. With help, figured how it was held together and managed to get it disconnected. I have also disconnected the evap line at the evap canister at the back rather than disconnect the line at the radiator and pull it out all the way back. Took a bunch of photos to remind me how all the pipes are routed before pulling them out around the tank and evap unit.

As my son is home tomorrow, we plan to try to pull everything out from under the car so I can then start the strip down.

Do have one question. What is the best way to disconnect the rear lower control arms with the tension of the coil springs. I've thought of ratchet ties and coil compressors to take up the tension to allow removing the bolts. Is there an easier/safer way to do this?

As the pipes took less time than I expected, thought I'd have a go at removing the front 2 sub-frame bolts that sheared off. There was about 3/8"th of each front bolt left. Found a great stud extraction tool that was simple to use but very effective. Both remaining studs turned out without difficulty. That just leaves the 2 rear bolts (one each side) to drill out and remove/re-thread.

Really looking forward to pulling the sub-frame out from under the car.

One concern I have was when I was removing the evap pipe from the back of the evap tank, I noticed what looks like a crack in the case. I'm not sure if the crack is an issue until I can remove it to look closer. I'll photograph and post.

Neil

[abscate]

The rears don't have the tension on them that the fronts do, Neal. I just unbolted the rear suspension and pulled the springs out when I did my 1999. No compressor needed for rear

[scot850]

Thanks abscate. Just like to stay attached to my various parts of my anatomy, so don't like to take un-necessary risks!

I have now hauled the whole assembly out from under the car. I must measure how much space you actually need in clearance as I had to pull out sideways to get the header fuel tank out. Also had to loosen the fuel filler pipe to rotate it down to give clearance.

2000 V70R rear sub-frame (1)

2000 V70R rear sub-frame (2)

2000 V70R rear sub-frame (3)

2000 V70R rear sub-frame (4)

2000 V70R rear sub-frame (5)

I have started a separate thread asking if anyone wants any pictures of specific areas of the frame and fuel tank for reference as I disassemble it to component form.

Now that I have room, the next major issue is to make sure I can get the last 2 mounting bolts out before going any further or ordering parts.

Neil.

[scot850]

Finally had time to get back to this today. Have now separated the fuel and emissions system from the rear sub-frame. Taken a whole bunch of photos to upload on the piping system as it is hugely complex and stupid, but as the Vida instructions only cover the 98 AWD version (which I believe may have the charcoal canister at the front of the car), I have been taking extra photos for those of us without the benefits of the older car.

Again, there are signs of Volvo engineers endless stupidity. Things like securing the emissions canister with a clamp on the front side making it impossible to remove without dropping the whole sub-frame. They could have reversed the support frame and had the clamp at the rear with all the connections accessible to allow removal without sub-frame dropping.

With my sons help we lifted the fuel tank and system away from the rear sub-frame which now means I can start on the final strip-down. I will wait until I have gotten the 2 remaining sub-frame bolts removed from the underside of the car. No point continuing the strip down if I can't bolt the repaired frame back up!!

Fuel tank and emissions system

Sub-frame with fuel tank removed

This shows the sub-frame with access to the top clamping frame that sandwiches the differential and rear axle assembly in place. Note again the wonderful design with the bolts on the top requiring the whole frame to be dropped to remove the differential. Marvelous stupidity!

Neil.

[Ozark Lee]

Did you find anyone to repair the frame? A good welder might be able to build the rotted places back up with a TIG welder and then grind them back flat.

...Lee

[scot850]

I had thought about having it welded, but the frame is way worse than I thought. The majority of the channel section that runs from the front to rear mounting bolt is badly corroded hidden from sight. I picked up a west coast used frame. It really cost me ($650 CDN) with the shipping, but in fairness, the amount of labour to remove it must have been high if you consider the dealer charges a minimum of 10 hours for removing and replacing. I new one is in the $2500 range.

Corrosion on rear sub-frame

It doesn't show too clearly, but the whole of the channel section from the right hand side to the middle hole is deeply eaten with corrosion. Add to that I had to cut the bolts off, which meant I sawed off the stand offs on the frame which were also welded to the main car frame.

In my case repairing was not an option once it was removed.

Neil.

[precopster]

After all this work I hope you keep this car Neil. !!

[E Showell]

I'd be sharing this thread with Volvo, NA. Surely this is something they'd like to be aware of, if only to revise service procedures to advise their techs to check for this on older vehicles. Frankly, I'd be asking them for some compensation -- warranty or no warranty. That corrosion demonstrates a vehicle unfit for its intended purpose -- and perhaps a serious threat to passenger safety.

[scot850]

I did speak to Volvo Canada and they said they had never seen the problem! The dealer foreman said these have been a problem since the cars were only a few years old. They tell owners that the only option is to scrap the cars as the repairs for anything in that area that require dropping the sub-frame out weigh the vehicle value!

Mike, even after all the work, the car may still be sold. I know it will be a lot of work and cost, but I am getting tired of the constant repairs.

Thanks for the input guys.

Anyone got any thoughts on using stainless bolts for the sub-frame mounts instead of mild steel?

Neil.

[precopster]

Chuckle Volvo Australia's dealers also seem to believe that ETM failure is a problem isolated to overseas markets.
Because Volvo's list price for ETMs was so high here for a very long time people looked for alternative sources and that's the main reason the dealers don't hear of the issue.