I have been having the same issue, but nothing is working for me.
We used a puller, we tried to pry it out, then we actually pried so hard that the cup completely sheared of from the end of the axle.
Then we drilled a hole in the still embedded axle end, threaded it with a tap and die, put a bolt in it, and and still couldn't remove it. It actually stretched some pretty large bolts!
This thing is impossible to pull.
This leads me to believe that there is something more serious going on here.
Found this on another forum:
"Had this happen on my Honda Odyssey, turned out that the seal had separated and the backside slipped down over the C-clip and just inside the bore that the CV fits into. They had to take the trans out and split the case..."
Could this be the problem? Is opening the trans my only option? I couldn't do that myself and I'm running out of funds for this repair.
Any ideas?
Below is a couple pics of where we're at now:
Axle nightmare - How to remove them the easy way
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Remove Axles Without a Crowbar
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scissordub
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 3 January 2015
- Year and Model: V40 2002
- Location: Portland, OR
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mecheng
- Posts: 1271
- Joined: 27 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
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Wow never seen that. Put a dumbbell weight as per the previous post and a bolt and some washers and use that as puller. Try spraying some penetrant oil in there as well. Maybe the clip is broken.
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice
- kallekula
- Posts: 1074
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- Year and Model: S70 2000
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Didn't read the whole thread but I've been there...
Had to drill a hole in the joint and use a dent puller model bigger to get it out. Guess this is getting more common as our volvos age...
Had to drill a hole in the joint and use a dent puller model bigger to get it out. Guess this is getting more common as our volvos age...
BMW 540i 2002
S70 Base 2000
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JDS60R
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I usually weld a rod to the remaining part and make a slide hammer out of it. A local welder or a friend with a welder can help you out. I helped someone else with this a while ago. If I can find that post it may have some tips.
Retired
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
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I usually weld a rod to the remaining part and make a slide hammer out of it. A local welder or a friend with a welder can help you out. I helped someone else with this a while ago. If I can find that post it may have some tips.
Here it is
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=62641
Here it is
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=62641
Retired
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therealmurdawagon
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 20 May 2015
- Year and Model: 1999 V70T5
- Location: California
Hello there folks! So i just discovered this problem too, trying to change my driver's side axle, I spent 4 hours getting nowhere with a pray bar, screw driver, you name it. Finally thanks to some of your responses, I came across the post about using a 5/8 chisel, so i went to Home Depot, bought a COLD CHISEL SET one of them was a 5/8 which is small enough to get in between the tranny and the axle, and its thick enough and it is NOT a wood chisel, banged it with a hammer two times, and it came right out, in 5 minutes!
Hope this helps anyone out there who wants to give up and tow your car to your mechanic, saves lots of money!!!!
Love,
#therealmurdawagonT5 aka Gladys
Hope this helps anyone out there who wants to give up and tow your car to your mechanic, saves lots of money!!!!
Love,
#therealmurdawagonT5 aka Gladys
- abscate
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Breaking that casting in tension is pretty amazing.(old thread entry)
Mine just popped out with a Wunderbar with wood to protect the trans case
Mine just popped out with a Wunderbar with wood to protect the trans case
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- dosbricks
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 30 December 2004
- Year and Model: '96 855, '98 S70
- Location: South Texas
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As they say--your experience may vary. My S70 axle came out with no trouble using a flat carpenter's pry bar the way rspi shows in his video. But I recently had the driver's side axle out of the 850, and after much difficulty getting the pry bar positioned, it would not lever the axle out even with a lot of force applied. I fell back on erikv's method of using a 5/8" cold chisel as a wedge, and it popped right out. I don't have a clue why the difference.
Thank goodness there has been none of that shaft-shearing-off business....hard to fathom.
Thank goodness there has been none of that shaft-shearing-off business....hard to fathom.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
1999 V70xc drivers side front axle (prior aftermarket replacement which are prone to permanent residence) stuck in the transmission. Tried prybar, 5/8" cold chisel, "Wonderbar"; all to no avail. Did not want to break off the cup. Problem solved by taking apart the inner CV joint.
1. Released innermost band on the rubber boot by using long needle nose and regular screw driver.
2. Removed CV joint and axle and clean old grease.
3. Disassembled old CV joint by using snap ring pliers to release the C-clip retaining the CV on the axle shaft, in order to swap boots as the profiles were different.
5. Reassemble the axle on the bench, except for the end stuck in the car, and applied new grease.
6. Reattached the CV joint and axle to the car using a Zip tie, as I could not figure out how to place a band clamp on the inner boot while installed in the car.
Epilogue: Runs great.
Tips: Leave strut attached, and separate the lower control arm and the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Apply lots of anti seize to the hub splines while reassembling.
Best of luck to you all.
1. Released innermost band on the rubber boot by using long needle nose and regular screw driver.
2. Removed CV joint and axle and clean old grease.
3. Disassembled old CV joint by using snap ring pliers to release the C-clip retaining the CV on the axle shaft, in order to swap boots as the profiles were different.
5. Reassemble the axle on the bench, except for the end stuck in the car, and applied new grease.
6. Reattached the CV joint and axle to the car using a Zip tie, as I could not figure out how to place a band clamp on the inner boot while installed in the car.
Epilogue: Runs great.
Tips: Leave strut attached, and separate the lower control arm and the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Apply lots of anti seize to the hub splines while reassembling.
Best of luck to you all.
- dosbricks
- Posts: 1116
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- Year and Model: '96 855, '98 S70
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Welcome to the forum, gacman.
This is a very good fall-back procedure. I can readily see how it would solve a sticky problem before doing serious damage to the axle. Thanks for posting.
This is a very good fall-back procedure. I can readily see how it would solve a sticky problem before doing serious damage to the axle. Thanks for posting.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter
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