'98 V70 5 spd, base -- Junkyard score

Post by **E Showell** » 09 Jun 2015, 10:21

Picked up a very, very nice used, charcoal leather power front passenger seat for the '98 V70 for $32.86 (tax included) at Harry's-U-Pull-It in Hazelton, Pa yesterday. I never believed all those stories about incredibly cheap pick and pull parts that I'd seen here and elsewhere because their simply isn't a good PNP yard near me and my local recycler charges a whole lot more than Harry's for their used offerings.

Also got a good set of replacement (aftermarket) headlights for the same car. The silvering on the original Volvo reflectors is shot. The headlights were on the order of $24 ea.

For the S70 I pulled a full set of faux wood trim for the radio surround, console, glovebox, shift lever and steering wheel. The trim was around $5, the shift lever knob was $3 and the steering wheel was $10. I also got a rocker trim molding ($14) and new driver side door ($42) -- complete with glass, switch work and interior panel (although the interior trim panel is shot).

I also picked up a set of XC roof rails that I have already offered to a member here. If he declines, they will become available.

Post by **MrAl** » 09 Jun 2015, 10:38

Hi ES,

Wow, maybe i should have went too

How far into PA is that, from the NJ border?

Post by **E Showell** » 09 Jun 2015, 10:54

Don't know mileage from the border, but it is about 1.5 hrs from my home. I probably have a spare driver side master controller for you if you don't mind nasty switches.

Post by **MrAl** » 09 Jun 2015, 14:55

Hi,

Master controller...What does that do?

Ok so 1.5 hours times 800 miles per hour, the junkyard must be about 1200 miles from your home then

Ok, ok, at 75mph that's a bit over 100 miles away. That would be quite a drive for me.

Post by **E Showell** » 09 Jun 2015, 16:14

Master controller is the switch inside the driver's door armrest that locks all the doors and controls all the windows from the driver's seat. The door I got for the sedan was complete -- i.e., it came with the interior door panel and switchwork and I don't need the master switch. It may be that the switch will solve your door locking then reopening problem.

Yes, it is a bit of a drive from my place -- probably 80+ miles, but when I consider that, for example, Volvo headlights retail on the FCP site for $267.99 and the aftermarket headlights are more than $100 each, and front door locks that I picked up for $6 ea. go for about $150 ea. at my local dealership after my customary discount, the drive becomes worth it to me. On those two types of parts alone, assuming I would have opted for aftermarket headlights, I have saved myself in excess of $450 over new parts retail prices.

Post by **MrAl** » 10 Jun 2015, 06:50

Hi,

Oh yes, that is quite a bit of savings there.
We used to have some good junk yards about 8 miles from here, but they both closed up. We have a couple left around here, but not as good as they used to be.
I havent checked for any Volvo parts yet though, but for my old Hyundai they had almost nothing, in fact nothing most of the time.
The last time i was able to get something for that car was some 6 or more years ago. So i am hoping they have more for the Volvo's.

I really dont think it is the master switch then, because all the other doors work fine and that switch controls them too. Unless you think it has an extra contact for each door maybe? I dont know that much about it yet.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 10 Jun 2015, 09:28

Try that magic eraser on those nasty switches. It takes a little work, but you would be surprised at how it removes the goo.

Post by **E Showell** » 10 Jun 2015, 09:38

Shane -- I'm all over that. Thanks.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 11 Jun 2015, 13:31

How hard was pulling the faux wood for the area around the radio?
Did the dash need to be removed? (top part)
Got that project also in the wing to do.
Shane

Post by **E Showell** » 11 Jun 2015, 13:38

Shane -- I'm here to tell you it can be done without pulling the dash, but I'm betting it is a whole lot easier if you pull the dash. Most of the screws holding the trim in are either blind, inaccessible, or both. It helps to be a bit of a contortionist. In addition, by not removing the dash, we broke two attachment points on the mounting piece for the trim (somewhat centrally located top to bottom), but not the faux wood trim itself. I would not count on being that lucky twice in a row.

Also, I pulled a couple autoresetting circuit breakers at the yard that I am happy to send you for the cost of postage since I won't be using them in conjunction with a power seat conversion.