2005 xc70 drive shaft replacement?

mrscullini · Post by **mrscullini** » 18 Jul 2015, 10:25

one other question, do you know what the torque spec is for this bolt?

Post by **JRL** » 18 Jul 2015, 14:56

No, but it's on there pretty tight.
You have to glue it anyway (or buy the XC90 axle bolts)

mrscullini · Post by **mrscullini** » 18 Jul 2015, 16:52

thanks. do i need to remove the rotor to access the axle bolt?

Post by **chrism** » 20 Jul 2015, 07:16

No, you don't need to remove rotor.

Volvo calls for replacement of the axle bolt each time it's removed, as it's a "torque to yield" application:

Stage 1: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft/lbs)
Stage 2: Tighten/rotate additional 90°

Although it's not advised, many people reuse the old bolt so they are already stretched. In that case the factory torque specs are out the window and it's a matter of by gosh and by golly as to how much torque to apply.

Post by **xHeart** » 20 Jul 2015, 08:16

JRL wrote:First tighten and glue (using red locktite) the axle bolts and or buy and use a pair of XC90 axle bolts
Trust me on this, try it first.
You glue and let it sit without moving it an inch for at least 12 hours or overnight
Cured mine and the clanking in and out of gear was pretty bad, now 99% quiet.

This is almost always the issue and the cure

A small but important detail...

I purchased a pair of axle from a 2007 vehicle. It was labeled "A" for grade. Then took all apart and serviced the CV joints -- ball bearing, housing, boots, and packed tight with grease -- made it look new (cn90 style).

I now have two pairs of Volvo axles for our 2001 V70XC.

The hole where the axle bolt screws on goes through, i.e once boot is packed, the grease will spill out of the hole -- an indicator that the boot is at max.

In addition to screwing, the hole is also a cooling vent, a drain, and a tunnel to check up on grease -- refill if necessary.

So, what does it all mean... do not use thread-locker, instead use new bolt each time.

Love Volvo engineering!

Post by **JRL** » 20 Jul 2015, 17:26

Disagree
There are two sides (and splines

) to the story!
New bolts, great, but mostly it's the splines on the axle that are going south.
You need to check both ends of the equation.

mrscullini · Post by **mrscullini** » 20 Jul 2015, 21:59

thanks guys for all the input. i'm still a little fuzzy on the axle issue. my axle bolts are tight so i'm a bit unclear why replacing them fixes this issue.

the "click" sound i get is intermittent and i only get 1 click. it seems to only happen when i shift into gear and the tranny engages. it doesn't always happen. i have no clicking sound while rolling.

what are the chances that more serious damages are being done to the splines?

i've seen axle bolts with a rubber grommet on them. what does the rubber do?

mrscullini · Post by **mrscullini** » 21 Jul 2015, 08:40

is the axle bolt with the "10 cent rubber plug" really worth an extra $21 per bolt? i'm struggling to understand how the rubber eliminates the "ping". unless it simply damps it out and does not really eliminate the source.

Post by **chrism** » 21 Jul 2015, 21:57

My wife's S80 has a sloppy CV joint that makes a "clack" sound when shifting into gear or when reversing direction. I'm waiting for a more pronounced problem with the CVJ, like the typical lumpiness when turning/accelerating, before I replace the axle. Been waiting about five years now......

With the car in Park, jack up the one wheel only and try to rotate it forward/backward while watching the inner CV, you can see where the play is if it's anywhere in the axle.

Post by **JRL** » 22 Jul 2015, 15:18

You just don't want to listen to me, do you?
GLUE THE FRIGGEN BOLTS

They all start to do this over time. The splines become worn and the play becomes bigger, hence the louder noises