1999 V70XC severe shaking on acceleration

[Jack Rock]

Sorry for the time lapse between replies, it's only gets used on the weekend. So I've checked the left axle, it's tight. All of the mounts are tight, nothing suspicious there, suspension all double checked. It was shaking worse than ever last weekend, I noticed that the shake is only under load and is proportional to speed not engine rpm. Even on light acceleration or uphill, it shakes but stops shaking instantly when I let off the gas. This eliminates wheel issues, balance etc since speed at that moment is constant.

One thing I did notice while under the car was that the output shaft of the transfer case is leaking. The prop shaft is long gone. Unrelated probably but thought I would mention it.

[E Showell]

I had similar symptoms on a non-AWD s70, 1999 and a rebuilt ETM from XeModex solved the problem ($500 later). It could also be a bad coil pack causing the shaking if you've ruled out the rotating components.

[Jack Rock]

That's interesting, did your symptoms come with any fault codes? Mine is clear of codes. The coil pack makes sense like a misfire on a cylinder would cause some imbalance but I would assume that would throw a code.

[E Showell]

No codes of I recall correctly. Search my posts, it might all be there from about this past Feb.

[abscate]

Coils and plugs on coil pack cars are notorious for faulting without codes. Inspect plugs to diagnose.

[E Showell]

Are the coil packs original and how many miles do the plugs have on them? Coils packs are a maintenance item (replace) at about 100k miles. You mention the car has 210K km. If those are the original coil packs, they are overdue for replacement. I wouldn't go with cheapie replacement coil packs notwithstanding how tempting that may be. Figure about $60/per.

Many will tell you to just drive the coil packs until the fail and that is certainly an option and may well see you go many miles beyond your current mileage, but I am not a fan of that approach given that my cars are female-driven and I do not want to leave anyone stranded in an awkward place after dark or in the cold, etc.

If money is tight -- and when isn't it? -- you could just buy one new coil pack for diagnostic purposes and swap it around through each cylinder to rule out a bad coil pack. Trouble is, that approach may not prove definitive if you have more than one bad coil pack.

[Jack Rock]

Great information guys, thanks a lot. I assume the coil packs are original, this is my first post 98 volvo so coil packs are new to me. This will be the deal breaker, the gas gauge doesn't work (tried the techron thing), needs a catalytic converter, transfer case leak, large clouds of blue smoke on start up, now $60 x 5 coil packs and plugs. Timing components due any time as well.

I don't mind fixing things and putting money in, I just can't bring myself to put money into a car that smokes so bad at times (third one to do the same thing ). If it weren't for that, I would invest because I really like these cars. Anyway, thanks again for all of your input everyone.