I would back up and start again. Your bulbs worked but were dim, then you replaced them and they did not work. First make sure you have the correct bulbs - look up the specs and do not rely on what was in there originally, as they may be incorrect and the reason they were dim.
Once you have this sorted out, check all your contacts, scrape them lightly to make sure the surface is going to support a good contact. Once this is done make sure you install the bulbs correctly. Then reinstall the entire unit and see if this solves your problem. If not the other suggestions are completely valid - but what is troubling is they worked before you did the work and not afterwards.
2001 S60 Dash/Instrument Issues
- SuperHerman
- Posts: 1798
- Joined: 01 Dec 2014, 13:28
- Year and Model: 2004 & 2016 XC90
- Location: Minnesota
- Been thanked: 207 times
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WarbirdPilot91
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 05 Aug 2014, 21:20
- Year and Model: 2001 S60 Base
- Location: United States
Okay, thanks for that idea! I will try this first. Actually, I think when I remove the panel again, I will take some macro pics and post them here. Perhaps you all would be able to tell if the contacts are in good shape that way?
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Homebrand
- Posts: 93
- Joined: 25 Jul 2015, 20:47
- Year and Model: 2002 s60 2.4T
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Been thanked: 3 times
I recently repaired my Volvo DIM.
It is highly unlikely that you will see external cracks in the solder. It is more likely with age that the solder has "honeycombed" and has micro fractures which you will not see.
Main problem for me was that the information display (lower left corner) wasn't working.
And a few bulbs would not work.
Every now and then the information display would show some scrambled letters, and then just blank out. This annoyed the hell out of me.
I removed the DIM from the car, then i carefully took the whole thing apart and removed everything from the board (dials, bulbs etc)

This meant I was able to plug the board back in and test the light sockets with a multimeter to check for current.

Once you have it plugged in, use a multimeter to check that you are getting voltage to the contacts where the bulbs go. My issue was that there were after-market globe holders in the board and they had left some "stuff" on the contacts. I cleaned it off gently with an eraser.
As for the information display issue, I re-flowed the Motorola and EPSOM chips as well as some peripheral items on the board (This basically means you heat up the solder until it becomes liquid again). I used a soldering station I picked up on ebay for $46 AUD and purchased some non residual flux from radio parts.
While I was at it, I decided to go with a blue light in the back (LED's) - I like the blue a lot more than the factory green colour.

I've also changed my ECC and radio to blue backlight - but that's for another post.
NOTE: I have never ever soldered or reflowed anything in my life, so i spent a good deal of time practising on an old walkie talkie circuit board to get the hang of it, as well as reading a tonne of information online about reflowing chips on circuit boards. It would probably be easier as other posters have suggested to get to a repair guy and have them check the whole board and reflow most of it.
It is highly unlikely that you will see external cracks in the solder. It is more likely with age that the solder has "honeycombed" and has micro fractures which you will not see.
Main problem for me was that the information display (lower left corner) wasn't working.
And a few bulbs would not work.
Every now and then the information display would show some scrambled letters, and then just blank out. This annoyed the hell out of me.
I removed the DIM from the car, then i carefully took the whole thing apart and removed everything from the board (dials, bulbs etc)

This meant I was able to plug the board back in and test the light sockets with a multimeter to check for current.

Once you have it plugged in, use a multimeter to check that you are getting voltage to the contacts where the bulbs go. My issue was that there were after-market globe holders in the board and they had left some "stuff" on the contacts. I cleaned it off gently with an eraser.
As for the information display issue, I re-flowed the Motorola and EPSOM chips as well as some peripheral items on the board (This basically means you heat up the solder until it becomes liquid again). I used a soldering station I picked up on ebay for $46 AUD and purchased some non residual flux from radio parts.
While I was at it, I decided to go with a blue light in the back (LED's) - I like the blue a lot more than the factory green colour.

I've also changed my ECC and radio to blue backlight - but that's for another post.
NOTE: I have never ever soldered or reflowed anything in my life, so i spent a good deal of time practising on an old walkie talkie circuit board to get the hang of it, as well as reading a tonne of information online about reflowing chips on circuit boards. It would probably be easier as other posters have suggested to get to a repair guy and have them check the whole board and reflow most of it.
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013, 06:20
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
- Has thanked: 102 times
- Been thanked: 352 times
- Contact:
Are these one SMD/bulb leds? I ordered 5 SMD/Bulb to get brighter and more uniform backlight
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271279761456?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271279761456?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Homebrand
- Posts: 93
- Joined: 25 Jul 2015, 20:47
- Year and Model: 2002 s60 2.4T
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Been thanked: 3 times
Hi oragex,
Similar to what I used. The size needed for the s60 DIM are T4 Neo wedge.
Mine had 3 SMDs (Surface Mounted Diodes)per unit which was a direct swap for the globes. The color is very uniform with minor hotspots (hotspots are simply where it may be brighter in one particular spot)
For the ECC, Radio and other switch gear such as headlight switches I opted for the standard LEDs bulbs which look similar to a globe.
Buy just a couple to test the color before buying the rest.
I made the mistake of assuming all "blue" LEDs were the same. They're not. I have 20 SMDs that I installed and soldered that shone through a nasty dark purple color when the faceplates were reinstalled.
With the HU-613 radio they need to be soldered in. It's not difficult as they replace the existing ones.
And the buttons under the ECC for STC, Folding mirrors etc are the smaller T3 globes.
Just have to tackle the gear shift, steering wheel audio controls and door switch gear. All these are tiny SMD LEDs soldered onto the board.
Hope this helps.
Note: there is a green filter in the DIM so blue will work well. Other colors not so good.
Similar to what I used. The size needed for the s60 DIM are T4 Neo wedge.
Mine had 3 SMDs (Surface Mounted Diodes)per unit which was a direct swap for the globes. The color is very uniform with minor hotspots (hotspots are simply where it may be brighter in one particular spot)
For the ECC, Radio and other switch gear such as headlight switches I opted for the standard LEDs bulbs which look similar to a globe.
Buy just a couple to test the color before buying the rest.
I made the mistake of assuming all "blue" LEDs were the same. They're not. I have 20 SMDs that I installed and soldered that shone through a nasty dark purple color when the faceplates were reinstalled.
With the HU-613 radio they need to be soldered in. It's not difficult as they replace the existing ones.
And the buttons under the ECC for STC, Folding mirrors etc are the smaller T3 globes.
Just have to tackle the gear shift, steering wheel audio controls and door switch gear. All these are tiny SMD LEDs soldered onto the board.
Hope this helps.
Note: there is a green filter in the DIM so blue will work well. Other colors not so good.
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